Never too young: 18 month-old Caleb Cantara checks on the field
of Boston Marrow Squash for his parents Renee & Jeff Cantara,
owners of New Roots Farm. Credit: Jeff Cantara

FARMERS AND CHEFS FOSTER
HEIRLOOMS FROM FIELD TO FORK

By Tracey Osborne Miller

If you’ve spotted a black tomato, speckled lettuce or a red squash as New Hampshire’s farmers’ market continue into the fall season, you probably thought the summer’s rain got the best of them. But those irregularities may be the mark of precious heirloom edibles with unique tastes, colors and textures that can’t be found in factoryfarmed, industrial produce.

To restore place-based foods at risk in New England and enhance biodiversity, the Chef ’s Collaborative, a network of chefs that fosters a sustainable food system, along with its partner, Slow Food USA’s Renewing America’s Food Traditions (RAFT), launched the Grow Out pilot program in Portsmouth, Providence and Boston this past spring. Seven farmers around New Hampshire’s seacoast were given seeds to “grow out” some of the 16 varieties of heirloom vegetables. Seven chefs in the region also agreed to feature the unique produce on their menus. Seed Savers Exchange, Fedco Seeds and Old Sturbridge Village donated the seeds.

Linking farmers to chefs helps assure a market for the heirlooms. Restaurants in turn share the stories about the food traditions and complement the heirlooms with their menus. The unique color and taste entice customers to experience foods they might have passed by at the farmers’ market.

According to BenWatson, Chair of Slow Food USA’s Ark of Taste & Presidia program, “Heirloom varieties are ideal for smaller farms because they’re not all ready for harvest at one time, unlike their hybrid contemporaries that were designed for harvesting mechanically in one pass”.Watson helped select the heirlooms for the Grow Out and is also working with farmers in western New Hampshire to expand heirloom harvests. “Hybrids are hardier and can be developed in a wide range of conditions and geography, but taste and nutrition fall by the wayside,” claimsWatson.

Grower Josh Jennings of Meadow’s Mirth Farm in Stratham adds that hybrids are grown primarily for disease resistance, integrity during transport and storage. “Taste and color tend to be why heirlooms are preserved. They must be delicious and offer something special,” Jennings says.

Evan Mallet, chef and owner of the Black Trumpet Bistro, hosted the launch of the Grow Out. He believes, “The meeting was revolutionary and we’re going to continue seeing results from farmers who were inspired and are expanding their portfolio to include heirlooms.We’re also seeing more people coming into our restaurant that believe in the same thing we believe in and who are more aware of what heirloom means.”

Cultivating the heirlooms from field to fork helps educate consumers about the variety and taste of these almost by-gone seeds. “Some chefs do a lot of promotion and that helps our business,” continues Meadow’s Mirth Jennings. “People are afraid to try unusual things, but if a restaurant prepares it they’re more likely to try something new.” Fortunately, there are both an Heirloom Farm Dinner and a Restaurant HarvestWeek planned to celebrate the New England RAFT Grow Out.* (See Sidebars)

Chef turned farmer, Garen Heller of Back River Farm in Dover agrees that heirlooms generally have much better flavor. This is just one reason why heirlooms are in such great consumer demand. New Roots Farm in Newmarket has been successful in growing the Jimmy Nardello Sweet Italian Frying Pepper. “The Nardellos look like fire-y hot chili peppers, so people shy away,” says New Roots farmer Jeff Cantara. “But they’re so sweet. Once people try them, they always come back for more.”

Andy Gagnon of Andy’s Greens grew Trophy Tomatoes, one of the more rare, older heirloom tomatoes. He participated in the program because he likes keeping old traditions and because diversity is good for crops. Gagnon states, “Different pests like different crops. Relying on one crop is risky. The more variety, the less you risk for losing crops.”

Evan Hennessey, executive chef at Strawberry Banke’s Dunaway Restaurant in Portsmouth wants to convey the distinctiveness of the food itself and not overdo it. The Dunaway features the heirlooms as daily specials. “We like to have conversations with people and tell them about the unique characteristics of the vegetable and the farm,” says Hennessey. “More and more people are taking pride in where their food comes from.”

Old varieties of edible plants have real cultural significance and grace our tables with something irreplaceable. Once the genetic package of heirlooms is gone, they’re gone forever. Look for heirloom products at farmers’ markets and restaurants throughout New Hampshire. The program is not just to grow out seeds, “You’ve got eat it to save it,” says Slow Food’s Watson.

Tracey Osborne Miller is a holistic health counselor and wellness educator. She lives and eats along the seacoast of New Hampshire. You can find her at This e-mail address is being protected from spambots. You need JavaScript enabled to view it .

RAFT: Renewing America’s Food Traditions
http://chefscollaborative.org/
http://www.slowfoodusa.org/

RAFT HEIRLOOM VEGETABLES

Boothby’s Blond Cucumber • Boston Marrow Squash • Early Blood Rooted Turnip Beet • Forellenschuss or Speckled Lettuce Gilfeather Turnip • Jimmy Nardello’s Sweet Italian Frying Pepper • Long Pie Pumpkin • Marfax Bean • Siberian Sweet Watermelon • Sibley’s/Pike’s Peak Squash • Stowell’s Evergreen Sweet Corn • Student Parsnip • Trophy Tomato • True Red Cranberry Bean •Wethersfield (Red) Onion •Winningstadt Cabbage

FARMS

Andy’s Greens, York, ME
This e-mail address is being protected from spambots. You need JavaScript enabled to view it
207.475.6945
Back River Farm, Dover, NH
603.753.3454

Heron Pond Farm, South Hampton, NH
www.heronpondfarm.com
603.591.8720

Meadow’s Mirth Farm, StrathamNH
www.meadowsmirth.com
603.767.2610

*FARM DINNER OCTOBER 11TH

Multi-course, sit down meal with Grow-Out veggies prepared by RAFT participant chefs! For Info &Tickets, Contact:

Slow Food Seacoast
www.slowfoodseacoast.org

Chefs Collaborative
www.chefscollaborative.org

Moor Farm, North Hampton, NH
www.moorfarm.org
603.964.6793

New Roots Farm, Newmarket, NH
www.newrootsfarm
603.292.5902

Sustainable Farm Products, Strafford NH
www.sustainablefarmproducts
603.664.5151

*Heirloom Harvest Week

NH SEACOAST AREA RESTAURANTS

October 12–18th

Beach Pea Baking Co, Kittery ME
Black Trumpet Bistro, Portsmouth
Blue Moon Market & Café, Exeter
Flag HillWinery and Distillery, Lee
Fresh Local Food & Drink, Newington
The Dunaway Restaurant, Portsmouth
The One Hundred Club, Portsmouth