HEIRLOOM SQUASH

By Susan Nye

When it comes to interest in heirloom vegetables, winter squash are no exception. For many, it is the nostalgia of the pumpkins they found in their grandfather’s garden or the squash at their aunt’s Thanksgiving celebration. For others, trying a taste of the past is culinary adventure. Modern, mass agriculture focuses on quantity and durability for transport versus variety and flavor. Original plant varieties hold delicious and unique tastes for our twenty-first century tables.

What makes an heirloom an heirloom? Unlike many modern hybrids, heirloom plants have been developed in nature not in a lab. They are loved and enjoyed not as a short-term food fad, but for generations. To be labeled as heirlooms, plants must be around for at least fifty years; many are centuries old. Birds, bees and the wind pollinate heirlooms with special care taken to avoid cross-pollination.

Bert Southwick, now in his mid-80’s, has been growing heirloom squash and pumpkins on his Northfield farm for more than fifty years. Checking his crops mid-summer, he warned that this might not be a great year for squash, “They like the heat. The plants are hurting with all the wet weather, wet ground and cool temperatures.” To make sure you don’t miss out on great, local squash, get to the market, or Bert’s back door, early.

Whole squash store well and should be kept in a cool, dry place. They can be boiled or steamed, but roast them for the best results and an amazing, rich taste. Add some chopped onion, toss with a little olive oil and balsamic vinegar, season with thyme, sage, salt and pepper for a simple and simply delicious treat. You can use squash throughout the winter in hearty soups and stews, pastas and risottos. Or sweeten it up for delicious pies, custards and cakes. An oven filled with squash will warm the kitchen and it smells wonderful on a cold day.

Here are a few old favorites and maybe a new treat for you to discover on your next trip to the farm or farmers’ market: Perfect for pies, the Algonquian squash is native to New England and was grown by the Abenaki people of Maine, New Hampshire andWestern Massachusetts. The oblong-shaped squash is harvested green and turns orange in storage. It is meaty with a nutty, sweet taste.

The Blue Hubbard squash probably originated in South America and was brought to Marblehead, Massachusetts by seafarers in the 1700’s. Heirloom Hubbards are huge, often weighing up to thirty pounds with a blue-green skin and fine-grained, yellow-orange flesh.With their massive size, Hubbards have fallen from favor with many home cooks. Look for it at busy farmers markets and farm stands, where you can generally buy pieces by the pound. Or buy one whole, steam or roast it, then puree and freeze it in batches. You’ll be all set for the winter.

The Boston Marrow showed up in Salem, Massachusetts in the 1830’s, most likely from Chile, and quickly became a New England favorite. It is prized for its rich, fine textured, orange flesh and is primarily used for pies.

Butternut squash is an all time favorite and can be found on almost every New England Thanksgiving Day table. Its exact origin is not clear but it was cultivated by the Incas in the fifteenth century and has been around for at least 5,000 years. Creamy tan with rich goldenorange flesh, the bottle shaped fruit averages three to five pounds.

While the unusual Spaghetti Squash traces its roots to the Americas, North, South or Central is not clear. Spaghetti squash are oval-shaped, pale yellow and usually weigh two to three pounds. The cooked flesh has a mild, fresh taste and resembles spaghetti so serve it with your favorite Bolognese or Marinara sauce.

The long oblong-shaped Delicata Squash has a cream colored, green striped outer skin and a golden fine-textured inner flesh.While it’s an old heirloom, it disappeared for decades and is now making a comeback. The skin is edible and with an average weight of one to two pounds, delicatas are easy to prepare and cook up quickly.

The Table Queen or Acorn heirloom was first introduced in 1913 and is still a favorite today. This acorn shaped squash has dark green skin with sweet, yellow flesh. About five inches long, they can be cut in half and simply roasted or stuffed with rice or grains, vegetables and cheese.

The Turk’s Turban heirloom dates back to the 1700’s and depending on your frame of mind, they are either gorgeous or grotesque. They have beautiful red, orange and yellow markings, range from five to eight pounds and are better for decoration than eating. Whether you wrestle a giant Hubbard, roast up your grandmother’s favorite Table Queen or trade in pasta for a spaghetti squash, enjoy the autumn sunshine and lots of cozy dinners with heirloom squash.

Susan Nye lives, writes and cooks in New Hampshire. You can find more of her work and many of her favorite recipes on her blog at www.susannye.blogspot.com and on-line at www.susannye.com.

RECIPE

SPICY ROASTED WINTER SQUASH SOUP