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Green Walnut Liqueur Print

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My friends on Pender Island have a massive walnut tree in their front yard. Its impressive girth easily accommodates two shade-seeking cars during "My door-handle's too hot to touch, how about yours?" weather.

On a recent visit, it was the first thing I noticed pulling into their long, pebbly driveway. The green canopy engulfed us, branches studded heavily with the little green orbs doing their best to make it to walnuthood in one piece.

Looking up at all this green-ness got us talking about their former neighbour, James Barber, local foodie pioneer and Urban Peasant originator. James would toddle over on a certain day in July to pick these walnuts for his famous green walnut pickle. I wrinkled my nose at the thought of green walnut pickle, just the same way I wrinkle my nose at the thought of pickled watermelon rind.

What else can one do with all these walnuts in their green glory?

"Nocce" my Italian friend said.

"Green Walnut Liqueur!" I shouted.

"Same thing, different language, you idiot" she said. I  knew she meant the good kind of idiot, so I wasn't offended.

To the cookbook shelf we went. Elizabeth David, Jamie Oliver, and MFK Fisher were all surprisingly mute on the subject.

After a little internet sleuthing (isn't it always the way these days?), we had it.

I dragged the insanely tall fruit-picking ladder over to Mr. walnut tree, and fighting vertigo, picked the golfball fruit until my little cloth bag was positively bulging. The smell! There is something so manly and swaggery about it. I find the fragrant walnut leaves and fruit a little intoxicating: very crisp cowboy shirt and fresh grass clippings.

The best recipe came to us via David Lebovitz's amazing food blog. I felt a small surge of smugness knowing we were on track with DL across the globe in a green walnut kind of way. It was incredibly straightforward and satisfying to whip together.  I couldn't stop staring at the big glass bottle as the chartreuse-coloured liquid leaked from the cut walnuts into the vodka, weaving it's way through the cinnamon sticks and bright yellow strips of lemon.

Green Walnut Liqueur, or its winey counterpart "Vin de noix" is a simple drink enjoyed traditionally by country peasants across France and Italy. The drink is "put up" anywhere from early to mid July, when the walnut fruit can easily be pierced with a needle (I used a knitting needle). And just when the Fall chill settles into stay, it's time to raise a glass of your own.

When that time comes, I will raise my glass to you, James Barber. Long live the urban peasant in all of us! Even those who have no intention of ever tasting a pickled green walnut in this lifetime, or the next.

David's recipe is here.

 
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