There was a time when I could pass the dumpster behind a grocery store without thinking about dinner, without imagining what food might be hiding in the smelly heap under that hinged lid. However, those days are gone, and I’ll never look at garbage the same way again. My new preoccupation has little to do with the troubled economy or an empty larder, and everything to do with the issue of food wastage in North America.

My eyes were opened just over a year ago, when I first read Anna Lappé’s article Dinner Parties on the Front Lines, about food activists in Brooklyn and Berkley who host monthly potluck dinner parties where everything on the table has to come not from the market or even the garden, but from the trash. To raise awareness, these bold and enterprising spirits regularly dive into supermarket dumpsters and emerge triumphantly clutching plastic-protected bagels, apples, chocolate, cucumbers and more.

Call me naïve. I know that we are a wasteful society, but I was genuinely shocked to discover how much usable food we throw away. Depending on how the statistics are calculated and who provides them, somewhere between 25 and 50% of all food produced in North America winds up in the landfill.

Here in Vancouver there are people who do more than raise awareness. Liz Crudgington and the other people who work or volunteer at Quest Outreach Society are actually mending the holes in our distribution system by physically rescuing food—not from the trash, but before it gets there.

The concept of food rescue might bring to mind people who look and sound a bit like your parents scraping the creamed corn, cauliflower and lima beans from your plate, and wrapping up your rejects for starving children in Africa (who are sure to appreciate them more than you did). Thankfully, Quest’s food rescue is nothing like that; the food is of perfectly good quality and has never graced the plate of a finicky child. It is surplus stock, mislabeled product and groceries near their expiry date—goods that for one reason or another are not considered marketable through the usual channels. For almost 20 years Quest has been collecting what would otherwise end up in the landfill, and getting it into the hands of hungry people in our midst. Their suppliers are retail stores, wholesalers, bakeries, restaurants and farmers.

This rescued food’s first stop is Quest’s warehouse in East Vancouver. From there, some of it goes to food banks, schools, daycare centres, women’s shelters, neighbourhood houses, street youth programs and AIDS clinics. The rest of it ends up in one of Quest’s two very low-cost grocery stores, where it is sold at extremely affordable prices to customers who must be referred by social service agencies. Depending on what has been donated, clients can buy fresh vegetables, milk, frozen chicken, tofu, heat-and-serve Thai meals, rice, organic pasta, cupcakes, condiments and more. One mother discovered that at Quest, $20 could feed her family of four for a month. What’s more, Quest tries to tailor a solution to every hungry person referred; customers who have no money at all are welcome to volunteer their time in exchange for groceries. By allowing people to earn their food, do their own shopping and make their own choices, Quest has created a sensitive approach to food distribution that respects the dignity of people in need.

Over 1600 volunteers help out at Quest, under the grateful direction of Liz Crudgington. Liz grew up in India, where her father worked for the government, and later moved to Kuwait. “When I landed in Vancouver, I felt literally as if I’d been dropped in the middle of the ocean and told to swim.” During those early years here, her world was limited to the downtown business district and North Vancouver. “I had no idea that this other world existed. I had no concept of food wastage, of the amount we throw out here while people are going hungry every day.”

In autumn 2008, Liz had just retired from an 18-year position in a law firm, and had plans to do volunteer work in Tibet and India. Then her former boss, a lawyer on Quest’s Board of Directors, told her that Quest had a need for her in Vancouver. He asked if she could fill the position of Interim Executive Director. “It was easy to say yes,” she says. “Several months later, I am still humbled and very honoured to have this opportunity.”

Quest rescues 5.77 million pounds of food each year, a value of over $7 million. That sounds like a lot—and it is a lot—but it still represents only 1% of the food that gets wasted in BC. The other 99% ends up in our landfills. A figure like 99% is tragic for a number of reasons. From an environmental perspective, there’s the energy that has been used to produce, pack and transport it. There’s also the fact that as it decomposes in the landfill, it releases methane gas that contributes to the problem of climate change. Finally, it’s tragic because there’s nothing wrong with that food, and there are hungry people in many communities who would be glad to have it.

What would it take to get the amount of food wasted from 99% to 0%? In partnership with Eco-Action Canada, one of Quest’s projects is Zero Waste. The goal is to reduce all food wastage to zero, not only by collecting and redistributing more usable food, but by turning what is already spoiled or expired into compost or animal feed. During those unusually hot days in June, many Quest suppliers were donating lettuce because the heat was wilting it so fast. “We got more than we could use,” says Liz, “so we donated some to BC Wildlife Rescue for the animals.”

The Lower Mainland has the second highest poverty rate in Canada, with more than 20% of the population unable to secure the quantity or quality of food necessary for a healthy diet. As sobering as that number is, it will likely be outdated by the time we go to press. With the recent economic collapse, Quest has seen a 50% increase in the number of struggling families referred by social service agencies.

Recently Quest has undertaken a Capital Campaign, with the goal of raising $10 million, expanding to other communities, rescuing additional food, and feeding more people. It’s an ambitious project and they’ll need help to get there. Fortunately, the organization has several champions who recognize the value of what they’re doing, and in 2006 Vancity gave them a generous award of $1 million. This recession presents a challenge, as many corporations are finding it difficult to make the financial contributions that they used to. Still, most organizations want to help in any way they can, and new suppliers are usually quick to see the benefit when Liz asks if they can help with donations of food. “It’s a win-win for both,” she says. “The retailer’s operating costs are reduced and their donation to us is tax-deductible. Most people are eager to get on board.”

If you too would like to get on board by donating or volunteering, Quest will be glad to add you to the rescue team. Call 604-602-0186. www.questoutreach.org

Debbra Mikaelsen is a Vancouver-based freelance writer, copywriter and former finicky child. She’s now a somewhat less finicky grown-up who will probably never host a dumpster-inspired dinner party.