By Melissa Wood

Cooking Tips for Stinkless Sprouts

For centuries, generation upon generation has been conditioned to hate Brussels sprouts. We take our obligatory sprouts at holiday meals, boiled or steamed until they’re falling apart, and slyly hide them under mashed potatoes, sneak them into napkins, and stealthily feed them to the dog.

“Brussels sprouts are very popular around Thanksgiving, Christmas and New Year’s holidays. Those are the highest times of consumption, but otherwise they are not the most popular vegetable,” says Belwant Rangi of Paul’s Produce in the Fraser Valley.

Rangi’s family has been growing sprouts for nearly three decades. He says with a little knowledge, and the right preparation techniques, many would be singing a different tune about Brussels.

Brussels sprouts are a member of the Brassicaceae (brass-ih-KAY-see-ee) family, which also includes broccoli, cabbage, cauliflower and kale. Outwardly hardy vegetables, Brussels sprouts are quite delicate once they reach the kitchen. A few minutes too long in the heat, and these delicious little orbs begin to emit the sulphurous smell and taste that so many of us associate with Brussels.

As the organic compound known as glucosinolate breaks down during the cooking process, sulphur is released. Glucosinolate is found almost exclusively in Brassicaceae family plants, and is increasingly being touted as the reason that Brussels sprouts, and their vegetable brothers and sisters, may have cancer-fighting properties. Brussels also contain high levels of vitamin K, C and A, iron, folic acid, and dietary fibre. So, how do you keep the disease-preventative benefits of Brussels sprouts while avoiding the skunky final product?

Brussels sprouts are actually very versatile and easy to work with. By choosing fresh, firm, bright green sprouts, you’re starting your dish off right. Sprouts that are left to get too big, or are left out too long, are less likely to be appealing. When buying Brussels sprouts, be sure they are no larger than one to two inches (three to five centimetres) in diameter, about the size of a walnut. The smaller the sprout, the sweeter the vegetable. Brussels picked after the first frost of the year are also known to be much more delicate in flavour.

The key to perfect Brussels is to watch them closely while cooking. The sprouts can be simply prepared by boiling, steaming or roasting. To boil or steam, cook Brussels sprouts for approximately five to seven minutes and watch for them to turn a vibrant green. Many cooks suggest cutting a shallow cross in the stem of each sprout to aid in uniform cooking results. For roasting, toss sprouts with olive oil, salt and pepper, and place in a 400°F, preheated oven. Roast for 35 to 40 minutes, until the outsides of the sprouts are crispy and golden.

A robust vegetable, Brussels sprouts hold up well to strong, flavourful sauces and spices. Whether it’s a favourite cheese sauce, a spicy yogurt dressing or a curry spice blend, you can be imaginative with how you dress your sprouts. Blanched, Brussels are also ideal for use in stir-fries and salads.

They should be purchased as close as possible to the day of use. Belwant Rangi says that proper storage is important to ensure a tasty final product. “Brussels sprouts can last for about five days in the refrigerator, but they can easily be frozen for later use as well,” he suggests. “The outer leaves turn slightly yellow and the flavour can change if kept too long in the refrigerator, so blanching and freezing on a cookie sheet is a great way to store sprouts for later use.”

British Columbia lends itself to a very long growing season, with sprouts being harvested from mid-to-late August until January. With our often mild winters, growing sprouts in a home garden is another great way to enjoy fresh sprouts throughout the season. For a winter crop, seedlings should be planted outside around mid-August. Most varieties take approximately 100 days to reach maturity, so to determine the exact date for planting, count backwards 100 days from the expected first frost of the season.

To harvest, pick sprouts from the bottom of the stalk first, working your way to the top. Only pick those you plan to cook; you can leave plants outside through most weather, pulling them up once the temperature reaches -5°C for a week straight. Plants can then be stored and hung upside down in a cold cellar or basement, allowing you to continue harvesting sprouts for several months.

There are several varieties of Brussels sprouts to choose from, including a red heirloom called Red Rubine. The time for harvest depends on the variety, so be sure to check the specifications on your seed package or seedling before you get ready to plant. Your local farmers’ market may also sell full, mature Brussels sprouts stalks, which you can store in a cold place and harvest as needed.

Melissa Wood is a freelance writer based in Vancouver. Her mission is to help people fall in love with Brussels sprouts—one delicious winter meal at a time.

Editor’s Note: I spent most of my life in terror of these vegetables, but by cooking them without any water at all I have recently learned to love them. Roasting and sautéing are an excellent way to heart sprouts. DM.