A versatile and ethical edible

By Melissa Wood

A bit of a food chameleon, eggs can be transformed in a number of ways, making them a constant staple in the human diet. Their ability to be simply prepared and easily preserved has always kept us coming back for more.

For as long as we have been eating eggs, we’ve experimented with different ways to prepare them. The Ancient Egyptians considered them such an integral part of their diet that their tombs featured paintings of eggs by the bowlful. Thousands of years ago, the Chinese stumbled on a preservation technique that resulted not only in an effective way to store food, but also in a delicacy known as the century egg, still enjoyed today. A chicken, duck or quail egg is coated in a mixture of clay, ash, salt, lime and rice husks, and then left for several months to cure. When complete, the egg is revealed: a dark green, pungent-smelling yolk with a brown, jellied “white.” Those who brave the unique texture and odour of a century egg are sure to be fans for life, but these eggs are not for the squeamish eater.

Fortunately for the squeamish, eggs can be prepared for almost any palate. Boiled, poached, scrambled or fried, they make a quick meal or a springboard for more elaborate dishes. Eggs are eaten all over the globe, and each nation has its signature way of preparing them. Via the Italian frittata, Japanese tomago or Greek avgolemono, eggs have found their way into our kitchens and our cookbooks—but not without debate.

At one time, eggs came from a cook’s backyard. While a few city dwellers are attempting to move back in that direction, most of us today turn to the supermarket. And over the years, we’ve begun to ask questions, both about their impact on our health and about the ethics of battery cage production. Now, as more farms get back to basics, eggs are enjoying a resurgence and we can eat them without the once inevitable sprinkling of guilt.

Rabbit River Farms in Richmond has been SPCA-certified since 2003. That means their chickens have ample space to roam freely, access to perches and dust-bathing areas, and a strictly vegetarian diet. “We do not use antibiotics, synthetic medication or pesticides in the barn. Our organic and SPCA standards specify plenty of fresh air and access to outdoors for our hens,” says owner Steve Easterbrook. “In contrast, most supermarket conventional eggs are produced in densely populated battery cages.”

Chris Bodnar of Glen Valley Farm, a member of the Langley Organic Growers Co-operative, believes that consumers should talk to farmers, at markets and at the farm gate, to find out more about the eggs they buy. This is about more than peace of mind; good farming methods result in a better-tasting product. “Even though free-range eggs tend to be healthier, most people find that they taste ‘richer,’” says Bodnar. “Usually a rich taste is associated with fat, but in the case of eggs, the robust, flavourful taste results from the way the hens are treated.”

Rich in protein, zinc, vitamin A, vitamin D and B vitamins including folate, riboflavin and B6, eggs make for good eating—and with options like Rabbit River and year-round farmers’ markets, it’s easy to buy eggs that satisfy our bellies and our desire for humanely raised food.