BY DAVID COHLMEYER

Most summer tomatoes we grow or purchase are meant to be eaten raw “out of hand.” Fleshier sauce or drying varieties are bred to be cooked. Eating tomatoes are too juicy for most cooking or drying. Marinara can be made from the tastiest eating tomatoes, but you need to take care to merely heat (not cook) the tomatoes. To soak up the watery sauce, be sure to slightly undercook the pasta. For best results, use artisanal (Canadian) semolina pasta pressed through a bronze die. Its rougher surface soaks up more of the flavourful juices. Alternately, whole grain pasta also effectively absorbs the juices.

To keep the sauce texture alluring, tomato skins should be peeled and the seeds removed prior to cooking (see instructions, below). For this recipe, you can blanch your tomatoes in the large pot of boiling water prior to cooking your pasta.

BLANCHING, PEELING AND SEEDING TOMATOES

Bring a medium saucepan filled halfway with water to a boil; reduce the heat to a simmer. Have a large bowl of ice water ready. Cut out the stem end of each tomato (a tomato-coring tool is ideal for this). Make a small, shallow “X” in the skin at the other end of each tomato. Using a slotted spoon, gently lower two tomatoes into the simmering water. Cook the tomatoes until the skin around the “X” begins to peel away from the flesh when prodded with a paring knife, about 30 seconds. Using the slotted spoon, remove the tomatoes to the bowl of ice water. Allow them to cool for about 1 minute, then remove from the water. Using a paring knife, peel the skin from each tomato, beginning at the end with the “X.” Repeat with the remaining tomatoes.

Cut each tomato in half lengthwise through the stem if using plum tomatoes, crosswise if using round tomatoes. Using your fingers, remove the seeds from each tomato half; discard the skin and seeds. Cut the tomatoes as required.

Makes 4 servings

1 pound bronze-pressed or whole grain fusilli pasta
2 Tbsp extra virgin olive oil
1 medium onion or cippolini, finely diced
1 medium sweet pepper, finely diced
2 cloves garlic, minced
1/8 tsp sea salt, plus more if necessary
1/8 tsp freshly ground black pepper, plus more if necessary
2 cups blanched, peeled, seeded and diced tomatoes (see instructions, above)
10 fresh basil leaves, in chiffonade (rolled up together like a cigar, then cut crosswise into thin, ribbon-like strips)

In a large pot of boiling salted water, add the pasta. Cook, stirring occasionally until nearly softened, about 8 minutes.

Meanwhile, in a large sauté pan, heat the oil over medium heat. Add the onion and sweet pepper and cook, stirring occasionally, for 4 minutes. Add the garlic, sea salt and black pepper and cook, stirring, for 1 minute. Stir in the tomatoes and basil. Cook until just heated through, about 2 minutes, taking care that the sauce does not reach a simmer. Drain the pasta and place it into the barely cooked tomato sauce; toss well. Adjust seasoning if necessary. Serve in shallow bowls.

© Edible Toronto, Summer 2009
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