KALES
STORY AND PHOTOGRAPHY
BY DAVID COHLMEYER

Given that our growing seasons are so short, I like to create ways to stretch them out as much as possible. Crops that overwinter provide some interesting possibilities. The first trick is to start with a seed variety that can tolerate cold temperatures. An even bigger challenge is enduring freeze/thaw cycles, particularly after the plants begin to lose dormancy in March and early April. Most of the above-ground leaves shrivel during the winter winds. But if the growth tips are adequately protected, these plants quickly commence growing with the first warm breezes of spring.

One factor that can determine survival is the seeding date: a little too early and the plants become too senescent; a little too late and the plants are too immature to survive the challenge. Determining this date takes either some prognostication or some experience. (Experience, however, can actually be a hindrance in these times of climate change.) Generally, a week after Labour Day works best where we’re located, one hour north of the city. In Toronto, two weeks after Labour Day would be a good date to start experimenting with.

Another variable to consider is providing protection. Snow cover is certainly the best. Being in a snow belt is ideal. A snow fence just upwind of your crop can create some snow depth and reduce the snow-melting and leaf-drying winds. A source of winter shade is another way to maintain snow. Moving snow from another location can work but it should be lightly blown into place (i.e., with a snow-blower) rather than shovelled onto your plants. The snow provides more insulation and lasts longer when it is never touched.

Another survival tool is mulching. Just be sure to cover only after the soil is well frozen (typically in mid December). About 4 inches (10 centimetres) of straw mulch is all-natural and can be a source of organic matter the following spring. The main advantage of a fabric row cover is that its white colour reflects the warm sunlight and conveniently provides a layer of insulation during the night. But I am increasingly convinced that no covering at all provides the most consistent results.

Successful Overwintering Plants
Some ancient plants such as samphire roots and turberous chervil were actually bred for fall planting. Unfortunately, today’s common root vegetables (garlic being an exception) do not normally survive in our climate, but many leafy greens do. A feed of fresh garden lettuce during late April and early May can be one of life’s joys. But just don’t count on it every year! Try an assortment of lettuce varieties to determine which ones survive best in your soil and climate.

Spinach tends to have better survival in our gardens. I have found that the older, open-pollinated varieties are the best (but do not always succeed). When they do provide a spring crop, it is an amazingly creamy, rich treat.

One crop that seems to always survive winter cold and winds and freezes and thaws is kale. Most varieties will survive most years and provide deliciously sweet leaves in both the fall and spring. If you wait until they bolt (send up a flower stalk) during May, you can use the swollen buds as tasty “broccoli.” Or wait a little longer and toss the beautiful yellow flowers into salads.

Kale History
Not much is known about the origins of kale, but the Romans and the Greeks knew about several forms. By the Middle Ages it was one of the most common leafy greens in Europe. It could be harvested throughout the winter, right from under the snow, when nothing else was available fresh.

They knew it was exceptionally nutritious.They also knew it tasted great, especially in cooler weather. We now know it is loaded with Vitamins A, C, E, and K, along with calcium, iron, manganese, fibre, protein, and virtually no calories! It’s good for whatever ails you.

Kale Varieties
Kale is an early form of cabbage (Brassica oleracea) that does not form any head.The leaves might be perfectly flat as in collards, deeply savoyed as in Tuscan black kale, deeply cut as in Russian kale, or very frilly as in Scotish kale. Colours range from pale green to nearly black, and purple to pink or pure white. Since they crossbreed so widely, new forms are always being released. Some were even designed to be used as ornamental “flowers.”

I have found all varieties to be richly flavourful. However, some bred solely for visual appeal tend to be rather tough. The names may be confusing, so I think it is best to look at catalogue pictures when selecting seeds.

Growing Quality Kale
Kale harvested during the hot summer months can be tough, bitter and sulphrous. This gives it an unjustified bad name. Kales prefer fertile, well-drained soils, but they are very tolerant of just about any soil.

To avoid the temptation to harvest leaves in the heat of summer, wait until the end of July before seeding. This also provides a chance for the plants to grow large enough to provide steady harvests through October, November and early December. You can seed as late as early September, especially when you’re planning on having a spring harvest.

Direct seed about 5 centimetres apart in rows about 30 centimetres apart, and about 5 millimetres below the surface. Keep the soil damp until the seeds are up. As they germinate, tiny flea beetles may start chewing holes in the tender young leaves. Keeping the ground moist deters them. But if they are persistent, protect the young plants by covering them with a row cover. After mid-September, the beetles will have gone into hybernation so the cover can be removed. You might have some cabbage worms chewing larger holes in your leaves. A few can just be squished. If you have too many (or squishing is not your thing) you can spray with Bt (bacterium thurengensis), a natural bacteria available wherever garden products are sold. Later in the fall, black aphids take a liking for kale. Spraying them with insecticidal soap will reduce their numbers to a tolerable level.