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back of the house
THE SPICE OF LIFE
Tandoor Fine Indian Cuisine
BY SUSAN FILSON
PHOTOS BY PETER ACKER
A s you pull into the unassuming strip mall that houses Tandoor Indian Restaurant, the last thing you might be expecting is a fine dining experience. In fact, you might even be tempted to turn around and go elsewhere. But, that would be a mistake. They say you can’t judge a book by its cover, and one step inside this little jewel box of a restaurant bears that out to be true. If the soft, inviting shades of jade and Indian-themed artwork don’t draw you in, the gentle aroma of fragrant spices and simmering curries are sure to capture your attention. And the warm and gracious greeting you’ll receive from the owner, Poonam Maini, will seal the deal.
Maini opened Tandoor in 2001, looking to fill a gap in Sarasota’s ethnic food scene. Disappointed by the lackluster choices for Indian cuisine, she and her thenhusband decided to open a place of their own, serving the traditional Punjabi dishes of their homeland. With no prior restaurant experience, it was a gamble. But the risk soon paid off as Tandoor quickly developed a loyal following of core customers, many of whom are still regulars today.
Though not a trained chef, Maini was an accomplished home cook, having learned at the knees of her mother and grandmother. Armed with an arsenal of tried and true family recipes, she dove into Tandoor’s kitchen with gusto, churning out authentic, soulful Indian food.
Maini’s journey began in the Punjab region of northwest India. Raised in a traditional Indian household, she was betrothed at a young age in a marriage arranged by her family. By the time she was eighteen she was a newlywed living in the United States. In 1991, the couple relocated from California to Florida. By 2005, the couple had divorced and Maini was left as the sole support of her three children, Sheenaa, Shamani and Shabi. Tandoor, which started out as a labor of love, became crucial to the family’s survival.
Adding the role of breadwinner to that of caregiver was daunting for Maini, but she soon came to embrace it. A professional chef was hired to take over in the kitchen, enabling Maini to focus more time on raising her children and to learn the business side of running a restaurant. In the years since, the menu at Tandoor has evolved into a collaborative effort between Maini and Chef Krishna, featuring the familiar along with the more obscure.
Whether you’re on a restricted diet, or just want to eat a little healthier, you’ll have plenty to choose from at Tandoor. The menu contains a wide variety of tempting vegetarian, vegan, and gluten-free options. Carnivores will also find lots to celebrate, with an abundance of chicken and lamb choices. But, make sure you save room for dessert. Tandoor’s Malai Kulfi, the Indian version of ice cream, is to die for!
Those new to Indian food can get their feet wet with Tandoor’s bountiful lunch buffet, which features a rotating array of appetizers, entrées, breads, and dessert selected from the regular menu. All of the dishes are mildly spiced, but Maini is more than happy to jazz things up a bit if asked.
Another welcomed collaboration at the restaurant has been that of Maini and her eldest daughter, Sheenaa, an MBA student and budding restaurateur. Sheenaa has been an active participant in the running of Tandoor for several years and plans to join Maini full time once her studies are completed. The pair has set some lofty goals for their family business, including plans for expanding the current dining room as well as opening satellites at other locations. Maini explains, “This restaurant was first a fun hobby for me. Then, it became my source of survival. Now, the time is right to move forward. We’re ready to explode!”
Now celebrating its 10th year, Tandoor is the little engine that could. The restaurant is not only surviving in a backsliding economy, but is thriving in spite of it. Maini attributes this to both a commitment to quality as well as customer loyalty. “Over the years I have become so close to many of my regulars. They are like my extended family! For that, I am truly grateful.”
Tandoor is located at 3440 Clark Road in Sarasota. The dining room is open for dinner from Monday through Sunday, and for lunch from Monday through Saturday. Catering for private events and Indian cooking classes is also available upon request.
RECIPES
CHICKEN CURRY
ALOO GOBHI
(cauliflower and potatoes)
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