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COOKING FRESH - Pomegranates | Print |  E-mail
Article Index
COOKING FRESH
Feasts of Christmas Past
Joseph Wrede
Roland Richter
Pomegranates
All Pages

Pomegranates, one of the earth’s oldest fruits, are believed to have originated in the Middle East over
4000 years ago. Spanish settlers were the first to introduce them to the United States in the late 1700’s. While the San
Joaquin Valley in California is the only serious growing area for pomegranates in the U.S., they seem to grow fairly well here in New Mexico in southern parts of the state, and can be found at many southern farmers markets. These mysterious fruits seem to have symbolism in nearly every culture: The Chinese valued them as one of the three blessed
fruits of Buddha, while in Turkey a bride would throw a pomegranate on the floor to discover the number of children
from the number of seeds scattered. The Greeks regarded the pomegranate as the symbol of love and fertility, as the
fruit was believed to have sprung from the blood of Dionysus—a spring fertility god. In the modern-day traditions
of many Greeks, it is customary to adorn the holiday table with pomegranates, as they are a symbol of abundance; a
fruit that spills over in plenitude and good luck. In Persia, the pomegranate was a popular amulet against evils. Some
Christian scholars believe it was a pomegranate and not an apple that tempted Eve. Islamic legend explains that each
and every pomegranate contains one seed—or aril—that has come directly from heaven. A heavenly fruit indeed!

Pomegranate Gelee with Saffron-Yogurt Cream and Pistachios

Recipe by Deborah Madison

Serves 4 to 6

I developed this recipe for an event that featured both pomegranate juice and pistachio nuts. This seemed like a good way to bring them together. Pure, unpasteurized pomegranate juice is an intense drink, so a little goes a long way. It also happens to be a powerful source of antioxidants.

I let the gelee firm up in small, pretty juice glasses, leaving enough room for the saffron-yogurt topping, inspired by an, Indian dessert, mishi doi. It’s a pretty and somewhat unusual dessert. If saffron and yogurt seem strange, you can always have whipped cream in its place, or plain yogurt.

The Gelee

2 C.s pure pomegranate juice, such as Pom
1 package gelatin
1 T. sugar
2 t. orange flower water

The Yogurt Sauce
1/2 C. Greek yogurt or thick, full fat yogurt
1 T. honey, or more, to taste
2 T. milk
A small pinch of saffron threads
2 T. peeled, green pistachio nuts, coarsely chopped
Pomegranate seeds for garnish

Pour 1/2 cup of the pomegranate juice into a bowl, sprinkle the gelatin on top and let it stand for five minutes. Meanwhile heat half the remaining juice just to the boiling point. Stir it into the gelatin, add the sugar, and stir until the gelatin is completely dissolved.

Gradually stir in the rest of the juice, then add the orange flower water. Divide among four to six small glasses and refrigerate until set, allowing at least six hours or overnight.

Stir the yogurt and honey together. Heat the milk with the saffron threads, let cool, then stir into the yogurt. Refrigerate until needed.

To serve, spoon the yogurt cream over each glass of pomegranate jelly.

Garnish with the pistachio nuts and pomegranate seeds.

Tangerine Pudding Cake with Pomegranate Syrup

Recipe by Deborah Madison

Serves 4 to 6
Regardless of how sophisticated our desserts get, an old-fashioned
two-layered pudding cake remains a perennial favorite. Usually this
pudding cake is made with lemon, but here the zest and juice of
ripe, ultra-sweet tangerines take up the citrus role. The exact variety
isn’t crucial. I’ve used Pixie tangerines, which peak in mid-April, Satsumas,
which arrive in November, and those that fall in between;
Honeybells, Page, Dancys and so forth. Because tangerines are
sweeter than lemons, it’s possible to reduce the sugar. I serve the
cake with a drizzle of sweetened fruit syrup, not only pomegranate,
as given here, but other fruit sauces as well, such as fresh passion
fruit or bright raspberry puree. This dessert bakes in a water bath, so
be sure you have a large enough baking dish to hold your ramekins
or custard cups, or a single gratin dish with 1-quart capacity.
The Pudding
butter for the baking dish
2 t. finely grated tangerine zest
1/3 C. tangerine juice (from 2 to 4 tangerines, depending on their size)
3 large eggs, separated
1/2 C. plus 2 T. sugar
1/8 t. salt
3 T. butter, at room temperature
1 C. milk, your choice
3 T. all-purpose flour

Butter four custard cups or six smaller ramekins. Preheat the oven to 350°F.

Grate, then juice the tangerines.

Whisk the egg whites with the salt until foamy. Gradually add 2 T. of the sugar and continue beating until the whites are thick and glossy. Scrape them into a large bowl and set aside. Rinse out the mixing bowl, wipe it dry and return it to the mixer. Beat the butter with the sugar and tangerine zest until light and fluffy. Add the egg yolks one at a time. When well mixed, gradually pour in the milk with the mixer running, then add the flour.

Pour the batter over the whites and fold them together. Distribute among the custard cups and bake until the tops have risen and are golden, and spring back when pressed with a finger, about 30 minutes. Remove from the water bath and let cool.

Serve while still slightly warm or at room temperature, with the pomegranate syrup drizzled over and a small cloud of whipped cream.

Pomegranate Syrup

One pomegranate should yield about half a cup of juice. Roll a pomegranate around on the counter, pressing down firmly to release the juice inside. Use a paring knife to make an incision around the crown of the pomegranate, cutting a small opening.

Hold the pomegranate over a small bowl, and squeeze the juice out of the opening.

To make pomegranate syrup, bring the juice to a boil on the stovetop and simmer until thickened to the desired consistency.

Pan-Roasted Pear Salad with Frisee, Goat Cheese, and Walnuts

Caramelizing the pears makes this winter salad a standout. Use firm pears, and cut them in quarters. Arrange cut side down in a hot skillet. When the pear is nicely browned, flip and brown the other side. Make the investment in walnut oil – it has a deep toasty, nutty flavor that really brings the salad to life.

3 firm pears, quartered and cored
2 1/2 t. superfine sugar
2 T. olive oil
1 T. walnut oil
2 T. balsamic vinegar
2 T. sherry vinegar
1 T. minced shallot
4 C.s green leaf lettuce, clean, dry and torn into bite-sized pieces
4 C.s frisée, clean, dry and torn into bite-sized pieces
Salt and pepper to taste
4 oz. crumbled goat cheese or blue cheese
3/4 C. walnuts, toasted and chopped

Toss pears, 2 teaspoons sugar, 1/4 teaspoon salt, and 1/8 teaspoon pepper in medium bowl. Heat 2 tablespoons olive oil in large skillet over medium-high heat until just smoking. Add pears cut-side down in single layer and cook until golden brown, 2 to 4 minutes. Using small spatula or fork, tip each pear onto second cut side; continue to cook until second side is light brown, 2 to 4 minutes longer. Turn off heat, leave skillet on burner, and immediately add 2 tablespoons of the balsamic vinegar; shaking the pan until vinegar coats pears, about 30 seconds. Transfer pears to large plate and cool to room temperature.

Cut each pear quarter crosswise into 1/2" pieces.

Whisk remaining 1 tablespoon walnut oil, remaining 2 tablespoons sherry vinegar, remaining 1/2 teaspoon sugar, and shallot together in large bowl; season to taste with salt and pepper. Add lettuce, frisée, and cooled pears to bowl; toss and adjust seasonings with salt and pepper. Divide salad among individual plates; top each with portions of cheese and nuts. Serve immediately.

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