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COOKING FRESH - Roland Richter | Print |  E-mail
Article Index
COOKING FRESH
Feasts of Christmas Past
Joseph Wrede
Roland Richter
Pomegranates
All Pages

Roland Richter

Traveling and cooking often go hand-in-hand for a successful chef and it was the globe-trotting potential that first attracted Roland Richter to the profession. The chef/owner of Joe’s and Pizza Etc. in Santa Fe, grew up in a small-town farming community in southern Germany and was eager to explore the world. “I read a newspaper article about these chefs who traveled all over and I thought, that’s for me!”

Richter was about ten years old at the time and shocked his local school by asking to opt out of woodworking and join the girls’ cooking class instead. “There were only about 300 children in the whole school and no one had ever done such a thing before, so it was a big deal,” he remembers, “but my parents were very supportive and in the end they said yes. After all that, I didn’t learn much!”

Richter left school at 14 to take a formal apprenticeship in a Bavarian hotel. Since then he has lived and worked in several countries, including Canada, (where he met his wife, Sheila), and has been in Santa Fe since 1990. He is passionately committed to using fresh, local ingredients and last year spent over $30,000 on locally produced foods. “If you know and appreciate real food,” he says, “it’s not a choice.”

At holiday time he returns to his German childhood roots, when the centerpiece of Christmas dinner was a roasted goose. “We exchanged presents on the 24th so there were no distractions,” he says with a smile.
“Christmas Day was just a non-stop eating day.” He has continued to prepare the traditional goose ever since and, though Joe’s is closed on Christmas Day, Richter will make up special orders in advance, a 10 to 12 lb. goose can cost anywhere between $70-$90.

Roast Goose

By Roland Richter

12 – 14lb, serves about 8
12-14 Lb. goose
3 C. roughly chopped onions
3 C. chopped carrots
3 sticks celery
herbs: rosemary, sage
2 lbs. kosher course salt
grated orange zest
3 Granny Smith apples
salt, pepper to taste

The night before roasting, remove the giblets and neck and cut off the last two joints of the wings (use these items to make the stock.)

Place giblets in a pot (except the liver, which can be pan-fried and eaten as an appetizer.)

Add 1 cup of onions and carrots and 1 celery stick and cover with about 1 gal. water. Simmer slowly for about 3 hours, seasoning with pepper, salt, rosemary and sage. Set aside.

Remove the lumps of fat from the main and neck cavities (either save for rendering or discard.)

Rinse the bird thoroughly in cool running water, washing any residue from the cavity.

Rub about 2 T. kosher coarse salt all over the goose and sprinkle some in the cavity. Set the bird on a tray, breast side up, and put it, uncovered, in the refrigerator to dry overnight.

The next day, remove the goose from the refrigerator an hour before roasting and let it reach room temperature.

Season cavity with pepper, sage and grated orange zest and put the apples inside.

Prick the skin of the goose all over with a small thin knife (helps drain the fat) and place, breast side down, on a wire rack inside a heavy roasting pan. Add 1 pint of water to pan.

Preheat oven to 425°F. Roast the goose for 30 minutes to melt and drain body fat. Lower the oven to 300°F. Pour the hot fat from the roasting pan into a large can or pot (you’ll collect nearly a quart of fat by the end of roasting) and turn the goose breast side up.

Add remaining carrots, celery and onions, cover with 1 qt. of stock (made yesterday.) Cover the goose with heavy aluminum foil and roast for one hour.

Remove aluminum foil, baste goose and continue to roast and baste for the next 2 hours. Remove excess fat and replenish stock if needed.

When meat thermometer inserted in the thickest part of the thigh reaches 160F° the goose is done. Remove from oven and let rest for 15 min before carving.

For the sauce:

Put 1 cup of the goose fat in a heavy pot and whisk in 3 T . flour.

Cook slowly, until it starts to color. Add 1qt. of the cold stock and simmer, stirring gently, for about 20 mins.

Add another qt. of cold stock, stir and bring to a boil. Simmer slowly for 20 minutes.

Add all pan drippings (minus the fat) and vegetables from the goose. Puree in a blender and cook for 10 more minutes.

This basic sauce can be upgraded with the addition of wine, cranberries, orange or herbs of your choice.



 

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