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Feasts of Christmas Past by Anya Sebastian
It’s holiday time once again and, all over the world, people are starting to think about those favorite family recipes that everyone looks forward to each year. Home cooking is a traditional part of the season’s celebrations but, for many cultures, it doesn’t have to center around turkey and pumpkin pie. As three top New Mexico chefs, from very different backgrounds, deliciously demonstrate, there are some very tempting alternatives out there for those adventurous enough to think out of the box.
Henrique Valdovinos
For Henrique Valdovinos, general manager of La Provence, a French brasserie in Albuquerque’s Nob Hill district, the mere mention of holiday cooking makes his eyes light up. A trained and experienced chef, Valdovinos can produce a bûche de Noel as effortlessly as a pumpkin pie. “I love different traditions,” he says.
The Mexico City native had a multicultural perspective from the start. The son of a Lebanese father and Spanish/Mexican mother, he grew up with a variety of different ethnic foods. His interest in culinary cultures and a strong desire to travel, prompted him to go to school in Paris and he has since worked in restaurants in Spain, Italy and France as well as Mexico and the United States. His favorite holiday foods, however, remain those of his Mexican childhood.
The traditional holiday feast was eaten around midnight on Christmas Eve and began with ‘romeritos con tortas de camaron’ (shrimp cakes with rosemary) lovingly prepared by his mother from an old family recipe. “And, to go with it, we had pomegranate punch,” says Valdovinos, adding with a grin, “with tequila!”
The much-traveled chef arrived in Albuquerque in 1995, after leaving his culinary footprints in San Diego and Texas, where he opened a classical-style restaurant. Since his arrival here, he has consulted on a number of different projects and his association with Steve Paternoster, the owner of La Provence, goes back a number of years. Paternoster also owns the neighboring Scalo Italian restaurant in Nob Hill and Valdovinos was involved in getting both places up and running. Although it’s only been around for three years, La Provence has already been voted the number one best French restaurant in Abuquerque. Being an accomplished culinary chameleon clearly has its advantages.
Romeritos von Tortas de Camaron
By Henrique Valdevinos
ingredients
2 lbs. small or medium shrimp, peeled and deveined
1/2 lb. fresh sourdough breadcrumbs
4 eggs
1 small yellow onion, cut in quarters
1 T. chopped garlic
1/4 C. olive oil or corn oil
Salt and pepper to taste
method
Place shrimp in large saucepan and add enough water to cover.
Add the onion and garlic and bring to a hard boil.
Cook for 5 to 10 minutes, until onion is soft.
Strain and dry all ingredients completely
Place in food processor. Add eggs, oil and half the breadcrumbs.
Blend thoroughly.
Form into croquettes, adding dry breadcrumbs as necessary.
Pan fry on low heat in shallow oil - about 5 to 8 minutes total. Do NOT burn!
sauce
I Lb. Romeros (Mexican rosemary) removed from stem
2 jars of mole (Dona Maria’s is best)
1 quart chicken consommé
method
Bring half the consommé to a boil, preferably in a clay pot. Lower the heat.
Add one jar of mole. Whisk together until the mix is shiny and without lumps.
Put in rest of consommé. Bring to a slow boil and add the second jar of mole.
Add the romeros to the mix and cook, over low heat, for about 30 mins. until the rosemary is soft. If necessary, add shrimp juice or stock.
About 5 minutes before serving, add the tortas to the mole.
Serve with Spanish cider or a strong red wine like a rioja.
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