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COOKING FRESH | Print |  E-mail
Article Index
COOKING FRESH
Feasts of Christmas Past
Joseph Wrede
Roland Richter
Pomegranates
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eggnog

Christmas redux
By Kate Manchester

Every family has holiday traditions around food, mine is no exception. When I have guests visiting for the holidays, I will ask what singular food defines the holiday for them, and then – if it’s at all humanly possible, add it to the menu. Over the years I have made Japanese Christmas cakes, seafood feasts to make you weep, Indian Kul Kuls, and I cannot count the number of Buche de Noel. Holiday food is like that, there are certain foods that are oft only eaten at that time, and it just wouldn’t be the same without them. This is an assortment of recipes that define my holiday; some are old family recipes, some were memories dear to others that I have adopted. I’ve been making all of them long enough that they are now solidly a part of my Christmas feast, no question. While the main course may alternate from year to year, (turkey or pork this year?), there are certain things I cannot live without each Christmas, like my Gramma’s Parker House rolls, or Amanda Hesser’s decadent Bread Pudding on Christmas morning. Each bite recalls the warmth of holidays past, reassuring and comforting; each dish has its own story and place in the day. Like a cherished family member unable to make it home for the holidays, it wouldn’t be Christmas for me if any of these were missing.

Christmas Breakfast Bread Pudding

This is a recipe I found years ago by Amanda Hesser, NY Times food columnist and author, It’s a dish that her family makes each Christmas morning , and seems appropriately indulgent and special given that it’s Christmas. After the gifts have been opened, , still in pajamas and slippers, to breakfast on something sweet and wonderful, something you’d never make any other day of the year for breakfast – feels just right. I round out the menu with thick cut bacon that I roast with maple syrup, and a cold platter of sliced oranges and grapefruit sprinkled with orange flower water and pomegranate seeds. Magic.

3/4 C. plus 2 T. sugar

6 T. butter

12 to 15 slices brioche or challah bread (all should be about 1/2-inch thick and about 3 inches round; cut accordingly)

8 eggs

1/4 C. mascarpone cheese

1 C. milk

1/4 t. almond extract

1/4 C. coarsely chopped toasted almonds

3/4 C. fromage blanc (don’t skip this!!!)

In a small, heavy saucepan, combine 3/4 cup sugar and butter over medium low heat. The butter will melt and the sugar will dissolve; keep an eye on it as it will begin to brown. Lower the heat and swirl the mixture in the pan so that it browns evenly, being careful not to burn. When it becomes a rich brown, remove from heat and pour into the base of a 9-inch round glass casserole with three-inch sides. Swirl the caramel around the base and 1 inch up the sides of the dish, and set aside until cool.

When the caramel is cool, place two bread slices stacked on top of each other in the center of the dish. Arrange the remaining slices, standing them against one another, around center, filling the dish so there are no gaps.

In another bowl, whisk together the eggs, 2 T. sugar and mascarpone cheese, until very smooth. Add the milk and almond extract. Pour this over the bread, making sure to saturate all of it. Cover tightly with plastic wrap and chill overnight.

About an hour before baking, dish out of refrigerator and discard plastic wrap. Heat oven to 375 degrees. Bake pudding 15 minutes, then sprinkle almonds over pudding. Continue baking until moist and set in the center, about 15 to 20 minutes more. Remove from oven and run a knife around edge of dish, loosening bread from sides. Place a serving plate over top of dish (bottom side up), and, using potholders, hold pudding over sink and in a single fluid motion, holding it away from your body, invert plate. Lift off the dish. Scrape any extra caramel over the hot pudding. Serve warm with a dollop of fromage blanc.

Maple Glazed Parsnips and Carrots

Growing up, my grandfather always kept a five-gallon can of maple syrup that his friends brought him twice a year from Canada. We always had to boil it before we used it, and to this day I love the flavor. How I wish I could get my hands on a five-gallon can of this precious liquid – although I’m not sure I could afford it! I love parsnips, and I think they don’t show up on menus often enough. Pairing this humble root with bright carrots and maple syrup makes for a colorful and just dressy enough side dish that even kids love, delicious served along pork or turkey.

11/4 lbs. parsnips

1 ¼ lbs. carrots

3-4 T. olive oil

¼ C. maple syrup

Preheat the oven to 400 degrees F.

Peel the parsnips and carrots, and slice on the diagonal into 1 ½ -inch chunks.

Place a sheet of parchment in the bottom of two sheet pans with sides, then place parsnips and carrots in each pan, making sure there is one layer in each pan. Toss the parsnips with olive oil until all are coated.

Pour the maple syrup over the veggies, tossing to coat. Roast for 20 minutes or so, shaking the pan and using a spatula to turn so they don’t burn. Continue roasting for another ten to twenty minutes, shaking the pan from time to time, the parsnips and carrots are done when they are golden brown.

Parker House Rolls

Every holiday, my maternal grandmother – Grammie to all of us, made Parker House Rolls that came out of the oven minutes before we were all called to the table. I think everybody in the house waited for those rolls to come out – we all had at least one deliciously hot roll with butter before they ever got to the table. While this recipe makes about two dozen rolls, if you have a crowd of a dozen or more I suggest doubling the recipe – I have seen young men polish off a half dozen before they got to the table, and unless you have sentry assigned to the rolls they may well disappear before all your guests have one!

1 C. whole milk

2 pkg. dry yeast

1/2 C. butter, melted

1/4 t. salt

1/4 C. sugar

2 eggs

4-1/2 to 5 C. AP flour

Gently warm the milk in a small saucepan over low heat, do not simmer or boil, just warm it enough to take out the cold. Mix 1/3 of the warm milk with the dry yeast in a small bowl and let sit until bubbly, about 15 minutes. In the bowl of a standing mixer, combine remaining milk, melted butter, salt and sugar and beat until the sugar is dissolved. Add the beaten eggs, then the bubbly yeast.

Add flour, 1/4 cup at a time, beating on medium speed, let the mixer beat the dough for 5 minutes. When the dough gets stiff, stir in rest of flour by hand, if necessary, to make a soft dough. Turn out onto floured surface and knead for 5 minutes, until smooth and satiny. Place dough in greased bowl, turning the dough so it is greased all around. Cover and let rise in warm place until light and doubled in size, about 1 hour. (At this point you can cover the dough well and place it in the refrigerator overnight. Let the dough stand at room temperature for 1 hour before proceeding with recipe.)

Punch down the dough and roll out on floured surface to 1/2" thickness. Cut with 3" round cookie cutter, (Grammie always used a juice glass to cut hers). Brush each roll with melted butter and fold in half to make half circles. Pinch edge lightly to hold, so the rolls don't unfold as they rise. Lay the rolls on 2 greased 13" x 9" cookie sheets, cover with a clean dish cloth, and let rise again until double, about 45 minutes. (If you have refrigerated your dough, this will take longer, about 60-75 minutes.)

Bake rolls at 350 degrees F for 20-25 minutes, or until golden brown. Remove from pan immediately and brush with more melted butter.

Makes 24 rolls

Eggnog

This recipe uses raw eggs, consume at your own risk. I got this recipe from a client I used to cook for many years ago. One year I was hired to cook Christmas dinner for her family in Texas, this was a family favorite that I’ve made part of my holiday every year since. It requires three bowls, but don’t let that deter you – upon cleaning up you’ll be happily well into your third glass which will surely make it all worthwhile. As for the raw eggs, I like to think that the bourbon takes care of any evil bacteria that might lurk in the eggs - I use Makers Mark in mine. Keep the eggnog well chilled and drink within two days, do your best not to drink too much, and try to remember to share some with your guests!

Ingredients

6 fresh eggs, separated

3/4 C. sugar

1 pint heavy cream

4 pints milk

1 pint bourbon, brandy, or dark rum

1 T. vanilla

1 T. freshly grated Nutmeg

In a bowl beat the egg yolks with the 1/2 cup of sugar until thick. In another bowl beat the egg whites with 1/4 cup of sugar until thick. In a third bowl beat the cream until thick. Add the cream to the yolks, fold in the egg whites, and add the milk, Bourbon, vanilla, and nutmeg. Chill in freezer before serving, then refrigerate and drink within two days.

Fruit Cake Cookies

Years ago I worked at a specialty food shop in East Hampton called The Barefoot Contessa, owned by author and Food TV personality, Ina Garten. Ina is a gifted cook and has great style as any of you who watch her show or read her books know. One year we made dozens of these delicious little cookies for the shop, and I have made them every year since. You can make ahead, form into a long roll, wrap tightly and freeze for up to a month. I’ve never met anybody who doesn’t love these cookies, and if I make no other cookies for the holiday – I make these.

1/2 lb. dried figs, coarsely chopped

2 oz. craisins (dried cranberries), coarsely chopped

2 oz. golden currants

2 oz. candied cherries, coarsely chopped

2 oz. dried apricots, coarsely chopped

1 T. honey

2 T. dry sherry

1 T. freshly squeezed lemon juice

6 oz. finely chopped pecans or walnuts

Kosher salt

1/2 lb. (2 sticks) unsalted butter, at room temperature

1/2 t. ground cloves

1/2 C. sugar

1/3 C light brown sugar, firmly packed

1 egg

2 2/3 C. AP flour

In a medium bowl, combine the chopped figs, craisins, currants, cherries, apricots, honey, sherry, lemon juice, nuts, and a pinch of salt. Stir so all are coated, cover with plastic wrap and leave the bowl out overnight at room temperature.

In the bowl of a standing mixer fitted with the paddle attachment, cream the butter, cloves, sugar, and brown sugar on medium speed until smooth, about 3 minutes. With the mixer on low speed, add the egg and mix until incorporated. With the mixer still on low, slowly add the flour and 1/4 teaspoon salt just until combined. Remove the bowl, and with a rubber spatula fold in the fruits, nuts, and any remaining liquid. Divide the dough in half and place each half on the long edge of a 12 by 18-inch piece of parchment or waxed paper. Roll each half into a log, 1 1/2 to 1 3/4-inch thick, making an 18-inch-long roll. Refrigerate the dough for several hours, or until firm. You can also seal in plastic wrap and freeze at this point; the dough will keep well for a month.

Preheat the oven to 350 degrees. Using a sharp knife, cut the logs into 1/2-inch-thick slices. Place the slices 1/2-inch apart on ungreased, parchment lined sheet pans and bake for 15 to 20 minutes, until lightly golden. These cookies keep very well in an airtight container for up to two weeks.



 

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