The Dinner Bell Rings: 150 Show Up

By Jess Higgins

photos by Rick Scibelli, Jr.

For some, the concept “farm dinner” might elicit thoughts of something akin to steak, eggs, milk, potatoes - with butter, obviously. Hearty, yes, but most likely tired, bland, and boring. This was not the case one recent Saturday evening at Fox Fire Farms in Ignacio. Not the case at all. The first ever, soon-to-be-annual five-course dinner and local wine pairing that was served that night at that farm was nothing short of an export to a countryside Spanish villa accompanied by a five-star menu.

Upon arrival, the crowd (hipsters to seasoned diners to self-proclaimed peanut butter and jelly fans) were welcomed by a glass of 2007 Canyon Wind chardonnay from Grand Valley, Colorado (read: Palisade, CO). The wine, the golden evening sun, and the view of someone’s future dinner out grazing the pastures below was pretty dreamy. Once seated, affront white tablecloths and amidst strangers that after a few glasses of wine became trusted confidants, came the first course.

Pause, let’s revisit the setting: Ignacio, Colorado, yet presented was a “Duet of Ceviches”. Linda Illsley of Durango’s beloved Cocina Linda championed this dish. Alaska came to us in the form of wild Copper River salmon and Alaskan halibut flavored by an organic Mexican marinade atop a hand-ground corn tortilla. Add cilantro and some Sutcliff Rosé and here was a dish and drink one might love together at 11 a.m.

The Latin theme kept up as Chef Linda’s second course stuffed Fox Fire Farms pastured pork and grass-feed beef inside a poblano pepper. What awoke this dish was the cream sauce, and a passerby commented that the Farm’s 2007 Riesling could be considered, “a second sauce.” Sweet it was.

Third, salad. The highlight of the salad, masterminded by Ryan Lowe of Durango’s Ore House, was the dressing. Before I tell you what it was, first think of something that might be growing wild in your yard that you have no idea what to do with, except mojitos. Mint. Way to add a flavor to a salad that could make it speak, Ryan. So this was good: melons, prosciutto, with mint olive oil and balsamic vinegar. Surrounding diners liked it - some said they might even like their obscure mint plants a little more now.

Dave Cuntz, the Strater Hotel Chef, to tell it straight, knocked the main course out of the Spanish villa’s courtyard. Sticking a fork into the farm’s grass-fed lamb was like stabbing a piece of caramel, and it dissolved as such. As if the meat wasn’t enough alone, diners could excavate around the plate and cover the meat with the strawberry, pepper, and mint compote. Here the 2009 Sutcliff merlot shined as the perfect fit for this dish, while the 2006 Hermosa Vineyards Cab smelled and tasted similar to the Guy Drew Colorado Port. That port was served with desert. After the first four courses, a French-sized portion of flourless chocolate cake was just enough to satisfy cravings for a sweet finish.

At the end of dinner the chef’s stood and the diners applauded. “Thank mother nature,” exclaimed Chef Linda, “she made it, we put salt on it!”  Surely not the sleepy farm dinner one might expect.

Check out their newly opened wine tasting room, open daily from 1-6 PM: http://www.foxfirefarms.com/organicwine.aspx