Edible San Francisco

The corner of 18th and Sanchez was once home to an Internet café where customers plugged in and zoned out, or grabbed a cup of joe and hurried off. But when Jesse Jacobs took over, he one-eightied the coffee shop into a tea lounge, replacing jolts of energy with quiet pauses. “It was a statement about slowing down,” he says. “It was a testament to changing times.”

Amongst the pillowed benches and billowy interior, Samovar invites customers to steep, sniff and savor—actions which, Jacobs says, require patience but can bring about great calm. This pace, however, didn’t initially jibe with the community. “People were completely resistant to the idea,” he says. And while searching for a loan—Jacobs says he applied at 72 banks—for one reason or another, everyone turned him down.

Missing a birthday is a major faux pas, especially when it is your own. But in Melissa Perello’s case, it was the perfect gift. “We were just too busy to celebrate,” she says, reflecting on two successful years since opening Frances in 2009.

With multiple James Beard nods, Perello’s pedigree proceeded her and reservations can be as difficult to grab as a seat on BART during rush hour. But packed houses were not just a result of the chef’s talent. Frances has proven itself to be more than a dining experience for special occasions (including birthdays). It is a restaurant for regulars, many of whom come not just every few weeks, but every few days.

Adam Timney is not swayed by hype or hearsay. When asked to be the head chef in a seemingly cursed location, Timney took on the challenge with enthusiasm. And while the term “California Cuisine” makes some chefs squeamish, as a fifth-generation Golden Coaster Timney owns it proudly. “My menu pulls from all the cultures we have here,” he says. “So even though the term is kind of a cop-out now, at Starbelly it is the real thing.”

When it comes to the plates, though, Timney’s tenacious attitude and risk-taking edge has a softer side. He explains that the name Starbelly represents a smile (one he wears quite often). “When we were thinking of names, this one made us laugh,” he recalls. “It was memorable. It made us happy.” And that simple smile translated into a playful menu, complete with mini corn dogs; high piles of expertly cured charcuterie; and classics like pizzas, pasta and mussels, literally peppered with jalapeños, chorizo and bacon.

While pregnant, Anamika Khanna didn’t dream of pickles or ice cream. “I wanted thali with all the fixings,” she says. “But there wasn’t anywhere I could go to eat it.” That was the beginning of Kasa, an Indian restaurant serving crave-worthy meals at a taqueria pace and price. Before the baby bump, though, there was Kellogg business school at Northwestern University, near Chicago, where Anamika’s husband, Suresh, became friends with future business partner Tim Volkema. “He talked about opening a restaurant with his sister,” Volkema recalls. And four years after graduation and a stint at Kraft Foods, Volkema called his friend to see about those food-related pursuits. A flight from Chicago and a plate of Khanna’s Chicken tikka masala kati rolls later, the three formed an official partnership. And in April 2008, Volkema moved to California to officially launch the restaurant.

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After 15 years in the Bay Area, Brett Emerson knew 24th Street was special. With a suburban atmosphere, a farmers’ market and neighbors who valued ecofriendly practices, Noe was the ideal location for his solo project. The Valley was also his home. And it was a controversial move.

As his plans for a Barcelona- inspired menu bubbled, Noe lifted its ban on new restaurants and bars. And in 2006, Contigo, the emerald green eatery, was one of three to receive a permit. But as the newcomer and the only one to open, Brett says there was pause. “We were warned that Noe might be challenging. It was isolated from popular dining areas.” And with an ingredient-driven menu, success depended not only on the community’s acceptance of them, but of their unfamiliar Catalan cuisine as well.