Edible San Diego

Story and Photos by John Alongé

The Ramona Valley American Viticultural Area (AVA), located 35 miles northeast of San Diego, encompasses 89,000 acres. The Valley is broad and flat, virtually ringed by hills that isolate it from surrounding atmospheric perturbations. It is currently home to 16 bonded wineries and more than 40 commercial vineyards with many more on the way, making it one of the most dynamic wine-producing regions in the United States.

The Ramona Valley AVA was approved on January 6, 2006, announcing the serious commitment shared by Ramona grape growers and winemakers to producing quality wines in San Diego County. This approval was the result of a lot of hard work by the members of the Ramona Valley Vineyard Association (RVVA) and, in particular, RVVA member Carolyn Harris, who also serves as the de facto legal counsel for the organization.

The AVA system, unlike its European counterparts, does not mandate such things as grape selection, method of vinification, crop yield and irrigation. This leaves a great deal of latitude to growers and winemakers. Consequently, the number of grape varieties grown here is substantial: Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Zinfandel, Tempranillo, Grenache, Mission, Sauvignon Blanc, Muscat, Syrah, Petite Sirah, Marsanne, Roussanne, Sangiovese, Cabernet Franc, Petit Verdot, Sauvignon Blanc, Mourvedre, Barbera, Viognier, Nebbiolo and others. This, in turn, accounts for the incredible variety of wines produced here, each bearing the distinct character of the boutique producer making it.

And boutique producers they are, in some cases micro-boutique producers. A good example is tiny Cactus Star Vineyard, owned by Joe and Becky Cullen. When the Cullens initially purchased property in Ramona, their intent was to grow some grapes to make wine for their own consumption. Joe had been a longtime amateur winemaker, so he planted an acre of his land to Tempranillo, Cabernet Sauvignon, Petit Verdot and Malbec. He quickly realized that he and his wife “couldn’t drink all that wine,” so he filed the necessary paperwork and posted $1,500 with federal and state authorities to become a bonded winery. Now, the Cullens produce almost 150 cases of wine a year, selling most of it through a few retail outlets and tasting events.

“We’re not interested in having a tasting room,” explains Joe. “That would be too much extra work.”

Many of the Ramona wineries, however, would most certainly like to have their own tasting rooms, allowing them to sell their wines directly to the public. Currently, this option is not available to them without incurring the enormous cost of a major use permit. In an attempt to align the local situation with that of other California counties that freely allow and even encourage wineries to have tasting rooms, a group of Ramona wineries banded together to propose an ordinance to achieve this goal. This initiative, known as the Boutique Winery Ordinance, was submitted to the county supervisors thanks in large part to the efforts of RVVA member (and lawyer) Carolyn Harris of Chuparosa Vineyards. Initially approved by the supervisors, the ordinance was later overturned due to the threat of litigation by neighbors of some of the wineries. This prompted an Environmental Impact Report (EIR), funded by the county to the tune of $250,000. Once that EIR is finished and presented this spring, the supervisors will reconsider the initiative.

Were the Boutique Winery Ordinance to be approved, the future could, indeed, be bright for the Ramona Valley AVA. A dynamic and successful wine region in the heart of San Diego County would be an economic stimulus for the area and a boon to local commerce, fueling ancillary service businesses. Many of the artisan grape growers and winemakers in the Ramona Valley share the vision of their valley carpeted with vineyards and populated with tasting rooms, a veritable San Diego County wine route.

“We will be mediocre until we have established a wine trail here,” states Carolyn Harris emphatically.

If enthusiasm is a meaningful barometer of the potential for success, then the Ramona Valley will indeed fulfill its destiny as a quality wine-producing area. The RVVA membership is working hard at their craft and doing all the right things to achieve their goals.

“We’re not just going to sell wine here,” says RVVA president and Highland Hills Vineyard owner Rich McClellan, “We want to sell the whole winery experience. We have a real focus on doing things right.”

All in all, that’s excellent news for San Diego wine lovers.