Milk:
The Surprising Story of Milk Through the Ages
By Genie McPherson Trevor

Whether you have ever considered it or not, milk consumers— including cheese junkies, yogurt enthusiasts and butter buffs— are participating in an uniquely human experience that dates all the way back to the Neolithic era. The historical road map of early foodways that leads us from Neolithic times to dulce de leche, béchamel and hollandaise sauce is a fascinating tale recounted with clarity and deftness by Anne Mendelson in her book Milk: The Surprising Story of Milk Through the Ages.

Mendelson’s book has something for every type of food lover. It is divided into three parts: the history of milk, the science of milk and recipes using milk. The history section details milk’s usage in societies and regions that Mendelson groups together to illustrate common traits, such as the Diverse Sources Belt or what Mendelson wittily refers to as Yogurtistan, where use of milk for yogurt is most prevalent.

Mendelson also explores milch animal husbandry and how, for example, the domesticated water buffalo of India and the caprines (goats) in mountainous regions to the west were responsible for unique regional culinary adaptations.

In the section titled “The Story of Modern Milk,” subtitled “Or, IsThisWhatWe Really Want?” readers can learn how a demand for fresh milk, a truly modern phenomenon, has driven today’s dairy industry to the extent that it supports concentrated animal feeding operations (CAFOs) at the cost of family farms. Mendelson also gives thoughtful observation to the differences between raw, pasteurized, conventional and organic milk.

In “White Magic 101” Mendelson takes the home cook/clandestine scientist through easy step-by-step instructions to gain an understanding of the true magic behind milk and all its many forms and uses—a great opportunity for kids to learn about kitchen science and play with their food too.

And finally she includes a recipe section for each distinctive milk product, including yogurt, butter, sour cream, buttermilk and the like, with culinary, scientific or cultural notes on each recipe. The recipes are not limited to Western tradition but rather incorporate those from many of the diverse cultures throughout the world that include milk in their culinary lexicon. eR

Milk: The Surprising Story of Milk Through the Ages.With 120 Adventurous Recipes that Explore the Riches of our First Food. By Anne Mendelson (Knopf, 2008). Order your copy from a local, independent bookstore.