The armory in Somerville, Massachusetts, is a toy-like fortified castle. Its whitewashed façade features two bulbous, crenellated towers at the corners that appear to be capable of withstanding a direct cannonball hit.

On a March weekend this year it was the home of a decidedly unwarlike event, the Northeast Regional Barista Competition, during which baristas from New York and New England vied for the honor of winning both coffee tasting and brewing events and moving on to the national semifinals.

As I learned, the caffeinated action inside, while peaceful, was preceded by serious boot camp. The competition is rigorous. Judges do much more than smell the coffee. Hunched over intently, they scrutinize every aspect of the baristas’ presentations, from the technical to the sensory.

To learn what it takes to compete, I visited the training room at New Harvest Coffee Roasters in Pawtucket and found New Harvest’s barista trainer Todd Mackey working with trainer and business development director Gerra Harrigan on perfecting his technique. I was struck especially by the esthetics of every element of the process. The technical aspects include not just appraisals of the baristas’ coffee making skills but also of the care they take in tending to the hygiene and appearance of their gleaming chrome-and-black coffee making machines.

On the sensory score sheet, the judges evaluate taste, color, balance and even the correctness of the cups in which the coffee is presented. All the elements, both technical and sensory, are designed to make your cup of espresso or latte or cappuccino, more than just a pick-me-up. It is meant to be a pleasure. As a glass of wine pleases us because of its color, aroma, complexity and texture, a well-made cup of coffee delivers the same spectrum of experiences.

1. Tamping The tamp is intently scrutinized by judges. They look for about 40 pounds of pressure on the grounds (and they can tell!). An uneven tamp can cause the brew to be watery or bitter.  Baristas bring their own tampers to competitions.

2. The brew The microfilter containing the perfectly tamped coffee is attached to the machine’s spigots and the coffee begins to flow into the cups, in slow, beautiful drops.The drawn-out beads of brew attest to its viscosity and smoothness.

3. Free-pouring cappuccino The milk in your cappuccino should look like this: not frothy but rich and smooth and silky. It should have what Harrigan calls a “wet-paint texture,” known in the trade as a “micro-foam.” Once in the cup, the foam should be persistent and visually correct, offering a pleasing contrast to the color of the coffee itself.

4. The creative category In addition to an espresso and a cappuccino, barista championship contestants are required to create a “signature beverage.” Mackey’s is a single espresso pulled over an almond-infused chocolate ganache. Lovely to look at, delicious to drink.

5. “Enjoy!” Mackey presents two perfect cups. Everything, from his expression and attitude to the cups themselves—chosen to set off the coffee’s rich warm colors—says “I enjoyed making this coffee, and I think you’ll enjoy drinking it.

Publisher John Schenck has gotten very picky about his coffee since writing this article.