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Edible Queens Magazine

The fresh, seasonal voices of local food.
Tags >> French

Our Top 11 for 2011

Posted by: JoeDiStefano

Tagged in: tacos , Sunnyside , pop-ups , Peruvian , Mexican , Long Island City , lamb , grilled cheese , fusion , French , Forest Hills , Flushing , diners , dim sum , Chinese , bread , astoria

Mr. Met and I ate quite well in 2011.

I'm not a big believer in New Year's resolutions or listicles. My beliefs tend toward dim sim and taco worship. That said the end of a year always prompts the need to look forward as well as backward. As for the resolutions I made in this space last year, I did not learn how to make hand-pulled noodles. Nor did I master mozzarella making. I did however step up my sugar cookie game. As for predictions I'll make two: There will be a revival of Greek cuisine in Astoria and goat will play a greater role in menus this year. Here, then in no particular order, World's Fare's Top 11 for 2011.

Most  Extravagant Dim Sum: Grand Restaurant

Grooviest Grilled Cheese: The Queens Kickshaw

Best Espresso Education: Sweetleaf 

Best Mexican Street Food in an Antojito Desert: Los Chilitos

Strangest "Fusion" Restaurant: Woodside Cafe

Best French Bread: La Boulangerie

Best Baja Ceviche at a Korean Market: Pedro El Cevichero

Primo Peruvian Pop-up: Broadway Bakery

Most Cumintastic Use of Lamb: Fu Run's Muslim Lamb Chop

Saddest Diner Closing: M. Wells

Best Meat Brownie: Salt & Fat

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Happy Holidays from World's Fare

Posted by: JoeDiStefano

Tagged in: Japanese , French , Forest Hills

Buttery Christmas cookies at La Boulangerie in Forest Hills.

The weather may not have felt like it, but is indeed the holiday season. Here's wishing a Merry Christmas, Happy Hanukkah, and all around glad tidings for continued peace, prosperity, and deliciousness in the coming year to each and every World's Fare reader. I got into the holiday spirit this year by working as an elf of sorts at La Boulangerie. I was tasked with preparing the buttery French sugar cookies known as Petit Sablé de Nöel.

Sablé is French for sand  François Danielo, said as he taught me how to blend eggs, sugar, and salt together until they reached a sandy consistency. As I folded in the butter the aroma brought back a flood of memories of watching my mother make similar cookies. The end result is crisp and buttery. If you want to get your hands on some I suggest you stop what you are doing right now and head over there right now. They're open until 8 p.m. today and from 8 a.m. to 2 p.m. tomorrow.

An okagamimochi mother ship and its minions at Sakura-ya.

Around the corner from La Boulangerie at Sakura Ya they celebrate the holidaysspecifically the New Yeara little differently. Just inside the door of this Japanese grocery find an array of small okagamimochi ($5.99), or mirror rice cake, presided over by a larger okagamimochi ($15.99). Small or large the stacked rice cake is a popular decoration in Japanese homes for the New Year. It's broken open in a ceremony called okagamimochi biraki on the second Saturday or Sunday in January. It's then grilled or boiled. Whatever you do don't try to eat it straight out of the package as I once did.

La Boulangerie, 109-01 72nd Rd., Forest Hills, 347-644-5606
Sakura-Ya, 305 Austin St., Forest Hills,
718-268-7220

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Preparing croque-messieurs while baguettes bake in the background.

Last week I stopped by La Boulangerie, the superb French bakery in Forest Hills, for a coffee and slice of pleasantly salty olive focaccia. As I was leaving my friend pointed out a baker preparing a batch of croque-messieurs. “Wow, look at all that Béchamel,” he said watching as it was spread across slices of pain de mie.  We stuck around to watch as each slice of bread was covered with French Madrange ham. After assembling a generous amount of Gruyère was grated on top.

The croque-monsieur with a sidecar of  cornichons.

A couple of days later I returned craving a croque-monsieur. I grabbed one from the cold case and handed over $6.50. After a spell in the toaster oven it was ready. I could hardly wait to attack the golden brown sandwich.

That’s one fine looking sandwich, Mister!

La Boulangerie serves its croque-monsieur with a knife and fork. Slice it in half diagonally to reveal warm Béchamel oozing over the ham. Bite into it and the crunchy, cheesy crust shatters giving way to custardy innards. It’s one of the finest things between sliced bread to be found in Forest Hills.

All that Béchamel  and cheese make for a rich sandwich. So instead of a pain au chocolat for dessert,I opted for an espresso and a Palmier. Unlike the outsized elephant ears found elsewhere La Boulangerie’s is delicate, scarcely large than an egg. Crunchy, sweet and flaky, it made for a great dessert with the strong coffee.

La Boulangerie, 109-01 72 Road, Forest Hills, 347-644-5606

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C’est magnifique! Chocolatey and buttery too.

This week The Sweet Spot visits La Boulangerie the new artisanal French bakery in Forest Hills. A month ago I watched François Danielo make pain au chocolat. It’s a laborious and time-consuming process involving multiple layers of dough, lots of butter, and lots of resting time between applying layers of butter and dough. Rolling the twin rods of chocolate into the dough and baking is by far the shortest part of this epic task. At the time I wrote that I couldn’t wait to try one. Not only have I since tried this extraordinary bakery's pain au chocolat, for the past month I’ve eaten at least one a week.

A peek inside La Boulangerie’s pain au chocolat.

A golden brown pillow with a crunchy exterior and soft layers of buttery innards enfolding chocolatey goodness, La Boulangerie’s pain au chocolat is the kind of treat that drives me to distraction. It’s no bigger than the palm of my hand, but plenty rich. At $2.10 it’s not cheap. Then again neither is air fare to France.

La Boulangerie, 109-01 72 Road, Forest Hills, 347-644-5606

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