
Mama Su's, combines a Teutonic specialty with soup dumplings.
Much as I love all the global cuisines in Queens what really intrigues me is the breed of self-styled fusion restaurants that can only occur in such a diverse population. I'm thinking of such combinations as Indonesian-Latino, which was offered at the short-lived Tropika. And then there's Himalayan Hut, which serves Indian-Chinese favorites like chili chicken alongside American Chinese standards like General Tso's. Add to this growing list Mama Su's in Bayside, which specializes in xiao long bao, or Chinese soup dumplings, and German wursts.

Mama Su's specializes in German sausages and
Chinese soup dumplings, among other things.
When he saw what I had dragged him out to Bayside for my hapless wheelman seemed displeased. What I had read on Chowhound was indeed true. Mama Su's serves soup dumplings along with seven varieties of German sausages. The extensive menu also includes other dumplings like shao mai ($3.75) and several varieties of steamed buns ($1.50 and $2.75), as well as such Chinese dishes as salted pepper shrimp ($10.50). Despite my friend's protest, I ignored the rest of the menu and stuck to the plan.

Mama Su's crab soup dumplings.
Pretty soon we were presented with an octet of crab soup dumplings in a bamboo steamer. Mama Su proceeded to tell us how to eat them, but I assured her we knew from xiao long bao. Each pouch was filled with a mixture of crab, and pork, along with a bit of broth. I have had better, but these were tasty enough.

Bauernwurst? Is this a hofbrau or a Chinese joint?
We chose bauernwurst, a pork and beef link, from the list of German sausages. The coarse ground sausage was flecked with bits of mustard seed. It was an odd but tasty followup to the dumplings. So why is German sausage being served at an otherwise Chinese establishment? According to the woman behind the counter, who it turns out is not Mama Su, the owner has a friend from Taiwan who now works for Schaller & Weber. Actually German style sausage isn't such a stretch for a Chinese spot. The kielbasa-like link da hong cha is fairly common at places in Flushing specializing in the food of Tianjin.
"There was supposed to be a Mama Su, but she left because the construction took too long," the gal behind the counter told me. "We are all Filipino-Chinese here," she added. Only in Queens can one find a German-Chinese spot run by Filipinos. Now if I can just get them to start serving their home country's porktastic dishes like crispy pata, they'd really be on to something.
Mama Su's, 212-22 48 Avenue, Bayside, 718-229-6262
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