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Edible Queens Magazine
The fresh, seasonal voices of local food.
Tags >> astoria
Posted by: JoeDiStefano
on Feb 7, 2012

The signature torta at Astoria's El Mariachi.
The other day I realized it had been a month since I'd partaken of a Mexican sandwich the size of my head. Immediately I sought to remedy this crime against nature and appetite. And thus the subject of this week's Sandwich Wednesday, a trip to Astoria for a torta. Astoria might seem an odd choice to sate a torta craving, but the neighborhood has several Mexican joints, including El Mariachi. Perusing the list of 19 sandwiches I briefly considered the cemita de pata ($8). Ultimately I chose something a tad less adventurous than a cow foot sandwich, the cantina's signature sandwich, the El Mariachi ($8).
Swaddled in deli paper it seemed dainty in comparison to other tortas I've had, but proved quite formidable. The El Mariachi consists of a layer of refried beans and crumbled chorizo; pierna, spicy pork leg; queso blanco; milanesa de res, a breaded and fried beef cutlet; queso blanco; American cheese; avocado; and lettuce and tomato. It's the first time I've ever had pierna. It will surely not be the last time. By turns crunchy and tender, the pork leg was terrific. Think of it as a rich, meaty bass note, the guitarrón in this symphony of flavors and textures. The orange American cheese, which I've never seen on a torta, was kind of like a fiddle.
A Mexican-American gutbomb if there ever was one,the El Mariachi is meaty, crunchy, cheesy and all together satisfying. So much so that I suffered the age-old malady of gourmands and gluttons alike: indigestion. It was well worth it. I'm good for another month.
El Mariachi, 33-11 Broadway, Astoria, 718-545-4039
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Posted by: JoeDiStefano
on Jan 17, 2012

Sal, Kris, and Charlie's Italian Combo is a force to be reckoned with.
Lately I've been feeling a vague existential agita when it comes to sandwiches. Much as I love fancy grilled cheese sandwiches, epic tortas, and Uruguayan tea sandwiches something's been missing. Perhaps a return to my roots is in order. So for this week's Sandwich Wednesday, I made a pilgrimage of sorts to Sal, Kris, and Charlie's Deli. I first heard of the self-proclaimed "Sandwich King of Astoria" from Astorian and chef, Lee Anne Wong. Like many fans of this Italian deli, she's partial to The Bomb, a behemoth of sandwich that encompasses an entire deli case's worth of Italian meats and cheese along with an entire deli case's worth of American meats and cheeses.

Mortadella, complete with pistachios, is just one of the meats that comprise the Italiam combo at sal, Kris, and Charlie's.
As appealing as the Bomb sounds yesterday was an Italian combo sort of day. It was the Feast of St. Anthony the Abbot, which I learned from my favorite Italian-American food blogger, Peter Francis Battaglia, is associated with all manner of porcine goodness. And really that's what all Italian combos are about. Packed with mortadella, salami, prosciutto, capiccola, pepperoni, and provolone the combo at Sal, Kris, and Charlies is no exception to this rule that the Italian combo is a celebration of pork and pork products.
Fork over $7.75 and you'll be presented with a sandwich as long as your arm. The gargantuan heroes here are a favorite of local firemen and Con Ed workers. Were there a sumo school nearby I have no doubt it would be a go-to meal for wrestlers as well. For this sandwich alone, the deli deserves the title "King." Ask for peppers and oil and vinegar, which do a nice job of brightening things up.
If you plan to eat the whole thing at once, do so in close proximity to a place to lie down. I ate three quarters of it and fell into a stupor. Don't plan on operating any heavy machinery afterwards either. Unless of course you're a Con Ed worker.
Sal, Kris, & Charlie's Deli, 33-12 23rd Ave., Astoria, 718-278-9240
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Posted by: JoeDiStefano
on Dec 30, 2011
Tagged in: tacos , Sunnyside , pop-ups , Peruvian , Mexican , Long Island City , lamb , grilled cheese , fusion , French , Forest Hills , Flushing , diners , dim sum , Chinese , bread , astoria

Mr. Met and I ate quite well in 2011.
I'm not a big believer in New Year's resolutions or listicles. My beliefs tend toward dim sim and taco worship. That said the end of a year always prompts the need to look forward as well as backward. As for the resolutions I made in this space last year, I did not learn how to make hand-pulled noodles. Nor did I master mozzarella making. I did however step up my sugar cookie game. As for predictions I'll make two: There will be a revival of Greek cuisine in Astoria and goat will play a greater role in menus this year. Here, then in no particular order, World's Fare's Top 11 for 2011.
Most Extravagant Dim Sum: Grand Restaurant
Grooviest Grilled Cheese: The Queens Kickshaw
Best Espresso Education: Sweetleaf
Best Mexican Street Food in an Antojito Desert: Los Chilitos
Strangest "Fusion" Restaurant: Woodside Cafe
Best French Bread: La Boulangerie
Best Baja Ceviche at a Korean Market: Pedro El Cevichero
Primo Peruvian Pop-up: Broadway Bakery
Most Cumintastic Use of Lamb: Fu Run's Muslim Lamb Chop
Saddest Diner Closing: M. Wells
Best Meat Brownie: Salt & Fat
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Posted by: JoeDiStefano
on Dec 20, 2011

Kickshaw's grilled blue cheese: fruity, nutty, and unexpected.
Eight months ago when I first visited gourmet grilled cheese emporium The Queens Kickshaw I was fascinated by the Great Hill Blue sandwich. I didn't order it though. Instead I opted for the over-the-top yet delicious Gouda with guava jam, black bean hummus, and pickled jalapeños. At the time I thought the blue cheese sandwich—consisting of prune jam, Great Hill Blue, and fresh pears on cranberry walnut bread—might be more bizarre than the gouda sandwich. Turns out I was wrong. There's really nothing more bizarre than Kickshaw's whiz-bang gouda grilled cheese. I know this because I finally tried the $11 blue cheese sandwich last night.

The cheese plate as a sandwich.
When I told Kickshaw's co-owner Benjamin Sandler I'd never had the blue cheese sandwich he was surprised. I, in turn, was surprised by how well-balanced it was. I've been a blue cheese lover since I was a lad, but I never would have consider it a grilled cheese cheese. The umami-rich blue cheese, pears, and slather of prune jam work well with sweet nutty bread. Now that I think about it this sandwich make sense in the context of a cheese plate. Fresh and dried fruits are natural complements to cheese. Along with a side salad of mixed greens with pickled blueberries it made for a fine light dinner.
The Queens Kickshaw, 40-17 Broadway, Astoria, 718-777-0913
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