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The Astor Burger from Astor Bake Shop makes the grade
BURGER KINGS
America's patty pro tastes the borough's best
Written by George Motz; Photographed by George Motz and Michael Berman
Just a few years ago, the burgerscape in Queens was grim. Options were limited to diner patties of questionable origin and neighborhood bars serving greasy, late-night nourishment to drinkers. Today much has changed, and quickly. Surveying a much brighter field of contenders, I humbly present the list of my top five burgers in Queens today, burgers that should not be missed.
Custom Burgers
While the notion of heading to the airport for a great burger seems akin to visiting K-Mart for a fine suit, I was drawn to Custom Burgers after rave reviews started pouring in from befuddled travelers. I finally made my visit to Terminal D after discovering that the meat was supplied by burger butcher to the stars, Pat LaFrieda.
Ordering at Custom does not give you the sense that amazing things await you, with a touch screen ensuring you zero human interaction. There are plenty of burger options, but I usually stick with the regular cheeseburger. I’m afraid of masking the incredible flavor of LaFrieda meat.
The burger at Custom starts as a 4.5-ounce “puck,” or loose-packed tall patty from LaFrieda. Your burger chef then presses the puck on a hot flattop with the bottom of a small skillet and some muscle. The burgers are served on buttered, toasted Martin’s potato rolls, with a finished product that looks and tastes similar to the legendary Shake Shack burger.
Unfortunately, Custom Burgers is not for everyone. Literally. This burger Mecca sits just inside of security at the Delta terminal, making access to Custom limited to those lucky people with boarding passes. You might want to change your reservation!
Hollis Famous Burgers
Orville Hall left the corporate world to pursue his dream of creating the world’s first hip-hop museum and burger joint in a defunct soul food restaurant in Jamaica’s Hollis neighborhood. This was not just any old food joint; it was the spot where some of the greatest names in hip-hop hung out and traded ideas. Hollis gave birth to Ja Rule, L.L. Cool J and Run DMC and Hall says that this urban corner in Queens was their nexus.
The burger to get at Hollis Famous is their quarter-pounder, which actually weighs in closer to half a pound. Ask for everything and you’ll get a patty blended with a mix of secret spices, topped with lettuce, pickles and a curiously tasty concoction of tomato sauce.
As you enjoy your fresh beef burger, you’ll find framed original gold and platinum records from Run DMC and one of Jam Master Jay’s turntables on the wall. And soon you may find the world’s first Hip-Hop Walk of Fame in the sidewalk outside. Hall wants to make Hollis the number one destination for hip-hop, but it’s the burger that keeps bringing me back.
The Burger Garage
When brothers Jim and Adam Pileski were in search of a place to plant their burger roots they chose Long Island City because of its lack of decent burgers, not to mention the nearby Citigroup building and condominium complexes. Clearly the gamble paid off: On opening day last summer, a line of hungry burger lovers snaked around the corner.
The Pileskis hail from the family that opened the well-known steakhouse The Palm, so their pedigree is sound. Jim takes great pride in his onions and it shows— the fried onion strings on the menu are similar to The Palm’s but even better. And if you ask for caramelized onions on your burger, prepare for a taste explosion.
Pat LaFrieda supplies the beef for The Burger Garage, so again there’s no need to overpower the burger with excess toppings. I know a few people that swear by the double cheeseburger but it’s almost too much for the toasted potato roll to handle. Instead, get a pair of singles with the aforementioned onions and you’ll be in hamburger heaven. Wash it down with New Orleans’ famous Abita root beer (on tap!) and leave happy.
Astor Bake Shop
The recently opened Astor Bake Shop, in an area off the beaten path in Astoria, is the brainchild of chef George McKirdy. After many years as pastry chef at Nobu, Café Boulud and Tribeca Grill, Astor is McKirdy’s first foray into restaurant ownership. While his baked goods are amazing unto themselves, McKirdy’s Astor Burger is not to be missed.
“It’s a high brisket blend,” he explained, “which makes the burger a bit sweeter.” And it does. Cooked on a flattop, this 6-ounce burger is served on a soft challah roll (adding to the sweetness) with pickles, lettuce, tomato and cole slaw. McKirdy finishes the burger with a creamy ancho, chipotle and piquillo pepper sauce.
Make sure to order the fries too, flecked with garlic, and wash it all down with some homemade sea-salt lemonade or refreshing real ginger ale.
Donovan’s Pub
What more can be said about this consistently good, untrendy watering hole in the shadow of the 7 train? You can eat among the fireplaces and ladies who lunch, or you can do what I do and pull up a stool at the long, beautiful bar. Like slipping into an old pair of your favorite shoes, Donovan’s remains a comfortably inviting place.
For several decades, Artie Kardaras has been grinding shell steaks into perfect burgers. The burgers are cooked in the steak broiler, or salamander, untouched. The resulting product actually resembles a steak—it is gently charred on the exterior and cooked perfectly to temperature inside. Served on a toasted sesame bun, this half-pounder seems like it would be a beast to tackle, but the perfect meat-to-bun ratio makes it more than manageable. Grilled onions and bacon make excellent additions. The burger that I ate at Donovan’s 20 years ago is virtually unchanged today; it remains my go-to burger joint in Queens.
WHERE TO GO
Custom Burgers, LaGuardia International Airport Terminal D
Hollis Famous Burgers, 201-03 Hollis Ave., Jamaica, 718-740-6114
The Burger Garage, 25-36 Jackson Ave., Long Island City, 718-392-0424
Astor Bake Shop, 12-23 Astoria Blvd., Astoria, 718-606-8439
Donovan’s Pub, 57-24 Roosevelt Ave., Woodside, 718-429-9339
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