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CHEAP THRILLS
Eat like kings (and queens) on a pauper’s wage
Written by Marissa Coren • Photography by Rebecca McAlpin
Feeling a little cheap these days? Join the club. Seems like everyone’s either cutting back, raising prices or anxiously awaiting the next extension of unemployment benefits. Uncertainty about the upturn to the downturn abounds. At least one thing’s for sure: There’s good food to be had in our borough for little more than the cost of a oneway subway fare. Let Manhattanites fight over $125 tasting menus—here in Queens, we’ll invest in these mouth-watering bargain bites any day, even if it isn’t payday.
GELATO: $2.50
Indulging in just a single scoop of gelato from Manducati’s Rustica will feel like sweet cruelty when there are so many colorful bins to choose from. The dessert’s velvety feel belies an intense flavor that will send you back for a second helping. For the price, the scoops are generous and the selection ranges from the expected (chocolate chip Stracciatella) to the quirky (almondtinged Bacio). Manducati’s Rustica, 46-35 Vernon Blvd., Long Island City, 718-937-1312
ONION POTATO KNISH: $3.00
For a new interpretation on a (very) old idea, one spot in Queens has a recipe for success. The Knish Nosh churns out creative versions of traditional knishes for locals who miss the warm stuffed blintzes and potato pancakes of their Bubbe’s kitchen. Like a tiny edible gift, the onion potato knish comes beautifully wrapped and filled with flavors that linger longer than Jewish guilt. Knish Nosh, 100- 30 Queens Blvd., Forest Hills, 718-897-5554
THE PUNISHER: Free*
* If you finish it.
A drink that sounds like a horror movie and tastes like liquid fire? Meet The Punisher, a simple but searing concoction of habanero pepper–infused tequila that promises to deliver a burning tongue and a shot at glory on Mojave’s Wall of Fame. The drink, aged 30 days, is an exercise in endurance: After a brave soul downs it, they must suffer through five minutes without food or water before claiming victory. The drink is on the house for those hearty enough to endure The Punisher’s wrath—pitcher of water not included. Mojave, 22-36 31st St., Astoria, 718-545-4100
BACON BACON BAGEL: 75¢
New Yorkers have a famously fickle love affair with their bagels. While the breakfast food routinely inspires monk-like devotion, even the most ardent followers are always looking for the next best thing. The search may never be over, but Utopia Bagels’ Bacon Bacon variety—a rich egg bagel studded with bacon bits—is a favored contender. Manned by various family members, this modest storefront serves hand-rolled bagels so fresh they may just be worth setting the alarm a few minutes early. Utopia Bagels, 1909 Utopia Pkwy., Whitestone, 718-352-2586
SMOKED BACON-WRAPPED PRUNES: $5 for a plate of five
Fewer words in the English language sound more decadent than “smoked bacon-wrapped prunes,” and that’s exactly how Winegasm likes it. The décor of this wine bar suggests Old World romance, while its small plate of succulent pork-enveloped prunes elevates even the cheapest bottle of vino to new heights. For an extra thrill, ask for the bacon crispy. Winegasm, 31-86 37 St., Astoria, 718-932-3331
SAMBOSA: $3.50
Simplicity is king at Kabul Kabab, Flushing’s ode to Afghan and Persian fusion cooking. At this cozy Queens outpost, saffron is a way of life and portion control is sacrilege. The popular sambosa is bursting with spiced beef and seasonings, wrapped in a flaky pastry shell and topped generously with a thick yogurt mint sauce. Diners can bring their own wine, and just a few dollars will send them home with plenty of leftovers. Kabul Kabab, 42-51 Main St., Flushing, 718-461-1919
LULYA KABOB: $2.25
Two brothers leave behind a life in Tajikistan waiting tables for a shot at opening a restaurant in New York. If this sounds like it should end with a punch line, then the joke’s on you. Cheburechnaya is the culmination of two siblings, one dream and countless roasted skewers. A true standout dish, the Lulya kabob is a juicy combination of lamb and beef that threatens to overshadow the rest of a large menu that includes bovine brains and whole quail. Cheburechnaya, 92-09 63rd Dr., Rego Park, 718-897-9080
BEEF TACO: $1.50
A meal at Los Portales is more about eating than dining. But this distinction hasn’t stopped hungry Astorians from seeking out this tucked-away little Mexican eatery. Freshly baked soft tortillas encase heaping piles of marinated meat and radish discs for a taste of affordable authenticity. Though the restaurant seats only a few tables, a simmering pot of cebollitas (traditionally prepared green onions) is on full display to attract sidewalk passers-by. Los Portales, 25-08 Broadway, Long Island City, 718-204-6736
GULAB JAMON: $1
If Willy Wonka settled in Queens, his headquarters would be Rajbhog Sweets. The most popular delicacies to emerge from this sweet-tooth wonderland are the Indian gulab jamons—fried orbs of flour and milk soaked in spice and syrup until they resemble sugar sponges. Lining the store’s interior like edible wallpaper, the gooey gulab jamons beckon to be bought and savored by the pound. Rajbhog Sweets, 72-27 37th Ave., Jackson Heights, 718-458-8512
SPINACH PIE: $1.50
When the name on the restaurant matches the name of its main cook, it’s usually an auspicious sign. Wafa’s does not disappoint. This small Lebanese gem serves homemade spinach pies fit for an army of Popeyes and elicits city-wide raves for its babaghanoush, hummus and tabouleh. The ingredients are fresh and infused with the kind of flavor that makes it a regular stop among the local Middle Eastern community. With prices more attuned to Giuliani-era New York, dining on a budget at Wafa’s feels like an embarrassment of riches. Wafa’s, 96-08 72nd Ave., Forest Hills, 718-263-2757
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bon appetit,
-- nick