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soup

BY SANDRA GUTIERREZ

The first sign that spring has arrived is witnessed by the green, thin and perfectly straight soldiers of the season. Asparagus are low in calories and rich in vitamins A, B, and C. Known for their elegance, asparagus are often served in fancy restaurants; yet, this most graceful vegetable is perfectly content when cooked at home. Select firm, bright green or pale ivory spears with tightly closed tips. If purchasing thicker specimens (of either green or white varieties), you will do best to peel the stalks for tenderness. Here are some of my favorite ways to prepare them.

ASPARAGUS SOUP WITH COUNTRY HAM

This delectable, smooth and creamy soup combines the best elements of the spring garden. The saltiness of the ham adds robust, meaty flavor that complements, without overpowering the delicate taste of asparagus. The simple garnish adds textural and visual interest and offers the taster a hint of what is to come. This soup is effortless to prepare and can be made a few hours in advance. If you don’t have a blender, push the solids through a food mill and return to the pot.

12 ounces fresh asparagus (about 40 thin stalks)
1 tablespoon extra virgin olive oil
3 ounces thick-cut country ham, diced into ¼-inch pieces
1 cup finely chopped Vidalia onion
1½ cups finely sliced leeks (white and light green parts only)
3 cups chicken broth
½ teaspoon dried thyme (1 tablespoon fresh)
½ teaspoon salt, or to taste
1⁄8 teaspoon freshly ground pepper, or to taste
1 cup whole milk
¼ cup finely chopped, fresh parsley

Cut the tips of asparagus about 2 inches long and set aside. Chop remaining stalks.

In a Dutch oven, heat oil over medium high heat. Add the country ham and sauté for 4 to 5 minutes or until crisp. Remove ham and set aside.

Add onions, leeks, and sliced asparagus and cook for 5 to 6 minutes or until onions are transparent. Add the broth, thyme, salt and pepper. Bring to a boil, cover, and reduce heat to simmer. Simmer for 20 minutes, then cool soup slightly and puree in a food processor. Return to pot.

Add the reserved asparagus tips and simmer until tender 4 to 5 minutes. Stir in milk and heat, but do not let it come to a boil. Salt and pepper as needed. Serve with the reserved ham bits and parsley.

Makes 4 to 6 servings.

ASPARAGUS TART

Crispy crust and tender custard meet in this mouth-watering and edible interpretation of springtime. Eggs and asparagus are a classic combination, and here they are transformed into an elegant dish. It is important to pre-bake the pastry shell well before filling it with the custard, so that the bottom will not become soggy. I like to fit a tart pan with pastry and then chill it before baking—cold pastry going into a very hot oven will be flakier. You can pre-bake the tart shell a few hours ahead of time; then fill and bake right before you plan to serve it so it will arrive warm to the table.

2 cups all-purpose flour

1 teaspoon salt

½ cup unsalted butter, cubed into ½-inch pieces and chilled (1 stick)

1 teaspoon white vinegar

4-6 tablespoons iced water

2 cups diced asparagus spears

1 ½ cups grated parmesan cheese

½ cup diced local farmers’ cheese (or good melting cheese)

5 eggs

1 cup whipping cream

1 teaspoon minced fresh tarragon leaves

½ teaspoon salt

Pinch of freshly ground black pepper

To make tart shell: In the bowl of a food processor fitted with a metal blade, pulse flour and salt for 10 seconds. Add butter and pulse for 30 to 40 seconds until it resembles coarse sand.  Add the vinegar and the water one teaspoon at a time while pulsing just until the pastry holds together when pressed between your fingers.

Place pastry on a clean surface. Press into a ball, then press into a disc. Wrap tightly and refrigerate for at least one hour up to overnight.

Remove from refrigerator. Let rest 10 minutes, and then roll into a 14-inch round. Line an 11-inch tart pan, remove excess dough. Chill for 30 minutes.

Preheat oven to 400°F. Prick pastry with fork and line with parchment paper weighed down with dried beans or rice. Bake 15 minutes, remove paper and weights and continue baking 12 more minutes.  Remove from oven, allow to cool.

To prepare filling: Fill a bowl with ice water. Cook asparagus for 2 minutes and immediately add to bowl. Drain.  Sprinkle the tart shell with the cheese and asparagus.  In a medium bowl, whisk eggs and cream. Add the tarragon, salt, and pepper. Pour into tart. Return to oven and bake for 25 to 30 minutes or until custard is set and top is golden. Let cool 10 minutes before serving. Makes 6 to 8 servings.

 
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