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By Melinda Palacio for Roberto at Babita’s Restaurant and for Eddie
Roberto knows the tricky fruit is best used in jam. He doesn’t listen to culinary norms, but tries it in a port sauce on a rack of lamb.
The fruit looks like a lemon gone wrong, wanting to be a sweet pear.
Its name squeezes member and embryo: membrillo. Not too pretty to a foreign ear, but music to my native tongue.
I stick my finger into sweet paste, taste brilliance paired with manchego cheese.
An ounce of quince and a second of sweetness to forgive the sorrows of a lost home.

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