Christopher Albrecht,  Eno Terra, Kingston

This is a summer dish that benefits from fresh ingredients.

Dish, 7"x 11" or 2-quart Pyrex or earthenware. Since this dish will be the serving vessel, the more rustic and visually appealing it is, the better.

1 tablespoon vegetable oil
2 sweet onions (cut into 1/8-inch slices, sliced with the grain)
2 fennel heads (cut into 1/8-inch slices, sliced with the grain)
6 zucchini, green, medium (cut into 1/4-inch slices,
on a slight bias)
6 yellow squash, preferably gold bar (cut into 1/4-inch
slices, on a slight bias)
12 plum tomatoes (cut into 1/4-inch slices)
8 sprigs thyme (leaves only)
2 sprigs rosemary (leaves only)
4 ounces grated Parmesan cheese
8 ounces goat cheese
2 tablespoons good extra-virgin olive oil
Salt and fresh black pepper to taste

Start by slicing the onions and fennel. Put them in a heavy pot with about 1 tablespoon vegetable oil, season with salt and pepper, and cook them slowly, for about 40 minutes, until their crunch is gone.

Place the fennel-onion mixture in the bottom of the baking dish.

Add about 1/3 of the thyme and rosemary leaves.

Next, layer the raw zucchini, squash, and tomato slices on top of the fennel-onion mixture. Shingle the vegetables to expose about a third of each row, so that the color of each is visible. It’s OK to pack the vegetables tightly—since they will shrink during cooking.

Once the vegetables are shingled, season lightly with salt and pepper. Sprinkle with the grated parmesan cheese, and another 1/3 of the thyme and rosemary.

Cook in a 375° oven for 45–60 minutes. Be sure the juices are bubbling and starting to brown. About 15 minutes before the end of the cooking time, break up the goat cheese over the top and continue baking.

When finished, add the remaining herbs and drizzle with good olive oil. Let the gratin rest for 10–15 minutes before serving.

This dish can be prepared a day in advance: just leave off the goat cheese, finishing herbs and olive oil until the final bake.

(Serves 8.)