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The spring edition of Edible Iowa, our 23rd, will be released on March 1st |
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The spring edition of Edible Iowa, our 23rd, will be released on March 1st |
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| DEPARTMENTS |
| 4 | GRIST FOR THE MILL Harvest time |
| 6 | NOTABLE EDIBLES Tasty tidbits to savor around Iowa |
| 16 | EDIBLE IMBIBABLES Brewing Close to Home—By Katie Roche |
| 22 | BEHIND CLOSED DOORS Lileah Harris—By Rob Cline |
| 24 | THE 99 Louisa County—By Kurt Michael Friese |
| 25 | LOCAL HEROES Time to vote for the best of food around |
| 29 | 1,000 WORDS Chiles at the Market |
| 30 | THE LAST WORD Peter Pringle’s The Murder of Nikolai Vavilov—By Kurt Michael Friese |
| FEATURES |
| 7 | FRISIAN FARMS Two Iowa brothers make Gouda the old fashioned way — by Eve Adamson |
| 10 | AN IOWA GIRL IN ITALY A doctoral candidate revels in her work — By Rachel Horner Brackett |
| 12 | FARMING, FLOODS AND FOOTBALL A visit to Kroul’s Farm — By Michael Knock |
| 18 | OUR DAILY BREAD Doing the Lord’s work in Laurel — By Allison Gnade |
| 20 | TEACHING THE SCIENCE OF DIVERSITY The Sand Hill Preservation Center — By Renee Brinks |
| 26 | LEARNING TO GROW This campus garden is empowering students — By Brian Morelli |
Folding her hands together, Teresa Paul looks up. In response to my question about whether their family farm is more inclined towards promoting their business or their lifestyle, I’ve asked her to separate two sides of the same coin. As Teresa explains, they’re indivisible, and their family business is a benefit to their great lifestyle. For the Paul family, growing grains without chemicals, milling them into top-quality stone-ground flour, and inviting customers out to their idyllic family farm tucked into the rolling hills of central Iowa are embedded in the fabric of their daily life.
Steve Paul’s parents, Wayne and Betty Paul, started the farm in 1959 just outside of Laurel, situated midway between Marshalltown and Kellogg amongst the rolling row crops of Iowa. Wayne’s education in agriculture from Iowa State University taught him to farm corn and soybeans with chemical-input methods, which he pursued for several years. By 1964, however, with the influence and encouragement of a friend, Wayne felt that “God wanted him to create something less manipulated by man” and turned to chemical-free, organic methods of farming. After implementing crop rotations and applying organic fertilizers and other natural cultivation methods, they were convinced that they had chosen the right path, fulfilling their role as good stewards of the land.
All of their fields and grains are certified organic. Certification expenses made certifying their milling room unfeasible, thus, they promote their organic grains as “Chemical Free.”
2006 brought the opportunity for Steve and Teresa to carry on the family business. Luckily, the family members were, as Teresa tells me, “all created by the Lord with different interests.” Teresa acts as secretary and processes their online orders while her husband Steve mans the bookwork and mechanical jobs around the farm. Of their six children, the eldest daughter Abigail designed and created their website, Susanna mills their grains and also keeps bees and goats, Daniel accomplishes all their field work, and the two younger daughters help with bagging their flours and grains.
Devotion to their customers who depend on them for wholesome Iowa grains motivates their family business. As for their business philosophy, they simply aim, Teresa explains, “to produce a product as natural and wholesome as possible – as close to the unadulterated grain that God originally created – since it is healthier for our bodies.” In a state where the vast majority of crops are inedible to humans before extensive processing (and furthermore are frequently slated for animal feed rather than for human nutrition), the crops the Pauls nurture are unique.
Following their understanding of God’s desires includes improving the lives of their neighbors, as Matthew 23:37-39 insists: “Thou shalt love the Lord thy God with all thy heart, and with all thy soul, and with all thy mind. This is the first and great commandment, And the second is like unto it, Thou shalt love thy neighbor as thyself. ” To promote the wellbeing of their fellow neighbors across the country, they feel that “part of loving our neighbor would be to provide products that are wholesome.” Amidst a food system that can be complicated and impersonal, the Paul family shows great respect for both the eater and the land, and promotes the connections between the two.
The family shares a wealth of information on their website, including recipes, photos of the farm, and tips for people with allergies to gluten and other foods. Unlike many businesses with online stores, the Paul family also comes face to face with many of their customers, who stop by the farm to pick up their orders. Surprisingly, about half of their customers place orders over the phone and pick them up themselves, directly from the farm. In this great example of the farm-to-table movement, the Pauls invite their customers onto their own home ground to see for themselves the people and environment that cultivated their food. The grains, raised naturally without chemicals, harvested by real people, milled by real people, packaged and sold by real people, benefit a real family.
The Pauls have a bounty of farmyard animals that children, students, and adults alike love to admire. Chickens, goats, beef cattle, cats, dogs, a dairy cow, and guinea hens flock the family farm. Patience, one of their two dogs, has been trained to herd the stubborn nanny goat, Clarinet, back into her pen after her daily escape. The guineas climb to a precarious roost in the trees every night, and the laying hens retreat into their coop for nighttime protection. Teresa tells me about evenings spent around a bonfire near the guineas’ tree, singing songs backed up by the guineas’ crooning. The lifestyle comes to this family naturally.
Customers also come naturally to Paul’s Grains. The business spends no money on advertising and depends on word-of-mouth to spread their name. Staying a small business is fine – and preferred – by the family: “If you get too busy, then it’s work,” Teresa explains. Although they’ve been encouraged by customers to sell their products at larger grocery stores, the Pauls prefer to maintain their close, personal connection with their loyal customers through their small family business, a situation they feel can only be found by keeping their business small.
Some customers come once a year, some every few weeks. Carloads of college students (such as those from the Grinnell College local foods buying co-op) and families drive to pick up their grains, eager also to visit a diversified family farm. Farms like these have become a rarity.
The demand for their grains has grown over time, through satisfied customers spreading the word to others looking for excellent, local foods. Though many of their original customers were individuals with a desire for a healthier lifestyle stemming from health problems, a more widespread interest in healthy eating is currently spurring the interest of a broader audience. Many come to them looking for food they can trust, unadulterated by chemical practices, from real people.
Return customers are a testament to the quality of their grains. Because their flours are milled-to-order and contain no preservatives, they taste fresher than most grocery store flours. In my own comparison of their whole wheat flour against another organic whole wheat flour from a large company in the Midwest, I found the Paul’s Grains flour truly to be more flavorful. In a raw state, their flour had a nutty flavor, while the other had very little flavor. In bread, their flour added an appealing, earthy taste to the loaves I made with it. In terms of freshness, Paul’s quite obviously has the upper hand.
Flours without preservatives (such as theirs) need to be refrigerated or frozen to maintain the stability of its oil. Flours that can sit around for a year and not go rancid, Teresa explains, probably contain preservatives. Customers, showing their conviction by becoming regulars, also tell the Pauls that they can taste the difference.
On a bit under a hundred acres of certified organic farmland, the Paul family grows spring and winter wheat, spelt, barley, corn, rye, soybeans, and buckwheat. They produce familiar items like cornmeal, pancake mix, oatmeal, and grits, and they offer a very broad variety of whole grains, fresh milled cereals, and fresh milled flours. A steel burr mill cuts their oats – steelcut oats retain more of their nutrients than rolled oats, which must be steamed first – and two stone grinders mill their flours. Their flours are milled to order, heat sealed, and almost immediately picked up or shipped. Combination packs of their hot cereals and their best sellers entice the curious customer. They also offer grains that they can’t meet the demand for or that can’t be raised in an Iowa climate – like rice, quinoa, and unbleached white flour (which must be processed more than whole wheat flour) – from other organic farmers.
In addition to their online store, Paul’s Grains are featured at Gateway Market in Des Moines, Henry’s Village Market in Homestead (near the Amana Colonies), Linn Street Market in Marshalltown, through the Farm to Folk CSA (Community Supported Agriculture share) in Ames, distributed more widely by United Natural Foods, Inc., and brought to the local public through farmers’ markets in Grinnell and Des Moines. Occasionally the family also offers their grains at street markets and craft fairs in central Iowa, posting on their website to inform their customers on where to find them.
The Pauls love the flexibility of their family farm schedule so they can get to know their customers. On their farm daily, amongst the animals, the grain crops, and their family, is a certain place to find them. Its farms like these that Iowa should be known for.
Orders can be placed online at paulsgrains.com or by phone at (641) 476-3373. They appreciate two days notice for pickup orders at the farm, which is located at 2475-B 340th St, Laurel
| DEPARTMENTS |
| 4 | GRIST FOR THE MILL EIRV at Three Years Old |
| 6 | NOTABLE EDIBLES Tasty tidbits to savor around Iowa |
| 16 | EDIBLE IMBIBABLES On the Trail of Great Iowa Wines —By Katie Roche |
| 21 | THE 99 RAGBRAI’s Final Stop is Full of Flavors —By Anna Wilson and Criss Roberts |
| 24 | 1,000 WORDS Chiles at the Market |
| 26 | BEHIND CLOSED DOORS Starving Artist —By Rob Cline |
| 29 | SUBSCRIPTION FORM Get Edible delivered right to your home |
| 30 |
THE LAST WORD |
| FEATURES |
| 7 | A FESTIVAL OF FLAVORS The 43rd Nordic Fest Keeps Tradition Alive in Decorah — By Renee Brincks |
| 10 | FLAT-OUT FRESH Tortilleria el Norte is a West Libery Original — By Mike Brownlee |
| 12 | SEWING SEEDS OF COMMUNITY A Knitter’s Breakfast at Home Ec in Iowa City — By Brian Morelli |
| 18 | REVIVING AN ANCIENT BREED Seed Savers Exchange Protects Animal Diversity Too — By Kurt Michael Friese |
| 31 |
EDIBLE COMMUNITIES |
We could hear the bellowing long before we could see the bovine perpetrator, a new mother cow who had somehow managed to get on the wrong side of the barbed wire fence from the herd – and therefore her calf. She was not pleased.
While I opened one gate (and hid behind it), Aaron Whealey, vice president and chief cowboy of Seed Savers Exchange in Decorah, opened the other and encouraged the wayward mom to pass through both gates and rejoin the herd and her calf. With one last bellow at me as she passed, the family was reunited. The erstwhile orphan was one of 50 new calves expected this season from the Seed Savers Exchange herd of Ancient White Park Cattle. A tiny number in a state that regularly sees herds of thousands in their feedlots, but this is no ordinary herd, nor ordinary cow.
The Ancient White Park, also sometimes called “White Forest,” “White Horned,” “Wild White,” or simply “Park,” has a recorded history that goes back more than 800 years. Their first literary mention comes from a 13th century Irish epic called Táin Bó Cúalnge or The Cattle Raid of Cooley:
It was at that time that the Morrígan daughter of Ernmas
from the fairy-mounds came to destroy Cú Chulainn, for she
had vowed on the Foray of Regamain that she would come
and destroy Cú Chulainn when he was fighting with a
mighty warrior on the Foray of Cúailnge. So the Morrígan
came there in the guise of a white, red-eared heifer accompanied
by fifty heifers, each pair linked together with a chain of
white bronze.
The author’s name is lost to history, and this noble breed nearly was too. In fact even today the American Livestock Breeds Conservancy lists the White Park as “critical,” a term that means that there are “Fewer than 200 annual registrations in the United States and estimated global population less than 2,000.” So the pair we had just helped reunite were important indeed. The 50 new calves at Seed Savers could be counted among the 500 expected at ranches in Virginia, Nebraska, and Montana. If they all get registered, they just might help the White Park move up a notch on the ALBC list of parameters from critical to the not-exactly-reassuring “threatened.” But nothing is sure when it comes to farming.
These noble cattle, with their distinctive white coats, reddish ears and long, imposing horns first came to North America as a single breeding pair sent to the Toronto Zoo from England in 1939 to protect the breed due to fears of Nazi invasion. From there they went to the Bronx Zoo, and later to a ranch in Texas. The small herd, descended
from that pair, was brought to Iowa in 1981 by the Moeckly Farm of Polk City. A couple of the heifer calves were then bought by Seed Savers just before the rest of the herd was bought by B Bar Ranch in Emigrant, Montana, where today 80 percent of this year’s calves are expected.
Now I am a city boy born-and-bred and know precious little about how to care for these creatures before they reach my kitchen. With each heifer averaging three-quarters-of-a-ton it took some encouragement to get me to enter the pasture to snap a few photos. These are not the docile, de-horned creatures of Old MacDonald’s Farm, but rather a social herd of very protective mothers, some with horns longer than my arm. I cautiously entered, and the bellowing began again – “moo” does not describe it.
This behavior is part of the reason some ranchers are starting to awaken to the benefits of the breed. They calve easily and on their own (Aaron says he’s never pulled a calf from a Park), are fiercely protective of their young, live and grow quite happily on pasture, and deliver exceptional quality meat. None of Seed Savers’ herd has ever seen a veterinarian.
Happily the herd’s behavior was more wary than aggressive. They did not, as I had feared, smell my urban upbringing and thus realize that they had the upper hoof. Or maybe they just wanted to lull me into getting just a little too close and then hook the strap of my Nikon with what appeared to be needle-sharp horns. Whether I was reading too much into the situation or not, all this from what turned out to be the smaller of the two herds kept on Seed Savers’ rolling acreage.
Whealey and his counterparts on the B Bar Ranch in Montana, in addition to Alec Bradford in Virginia and Lance Kuck in Nebraska, who each keep smaller herds, are keeping separate groups on their lands to strengthen the genetic variety within the breed. Scrupulous attention to which calf came from which heifer and which bull prevents inbreeding and thus reinforces the herd. This is important not only to the genetic code, but also to the marketability of the cattle. In this eat-it-to-save-it model, encouraging more ranchers to take on the breed is vital. A strong herd makes that more likely.
Nature is not monolithic. It can only thrive with diversity, so protecting a wide variety of breeds strengthens each species. In order to encourage that to happen in the modern world, one effective method is to create markets for the product. Recent successes in this model have been seen with the American Bison, and with the four formerly endangered breeds of turkeys that Slow Food USA’s Ark project brought back from the brink – The American Bronze, the Bourbon Red, the Jersey Buff and the Narragansett. Now not only is Seed Savers helping to rescue the Ancient White Park, but it has begun working with several heritage breeds of poultry as well.
As I gingerly approach a calf, it seems curious at first, but one stern warning from its nearby mother sends the youngster scurrying behind her for protection. I think I’m gaining ground, getting some decent images. Just then Whealey points out to me that while I’ve been focusing on what was in front of me, the herd was not retreating – it was surrounding. Best to retreat myself before they realized I’d be preparing one of their kin for dinner.
Thai Beef Salad
2 pounds beef flank steak (or substitute skirt)
For the Marinade:
2 teaspoon soy sauce
2 tablespoons hoisin sauce
1 teaspoon fish sauce
1 lime, juiced
2 cloves garlic, minced
1 teaspoon ginger, minced
1/2 each red onion, minced
1/3 cup peanut oil
1/2 teaspoon tuong ot toi (a Vietnamese chili paste, available in most Asian markets)
For the Dressing:
2 tablespoons rice wine vinegar
2 teaspoons soy sauce
1 tablespoon ginger
1 clove garlic
1 teaspoon tuong ot toi
2 teaspoons toasted sesame oil
1/2 cup peanut oil
1 sweet red bell pepper, julienned
3 tablespoons cilantro, chopped
Serves 4 as an entrée. 8 as a salad. Keeps refrigerated for 2-3 days.