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Winter 2009
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Serves 4–6

In Switzerland, cheese fondue pots are traditionally made of heavy, heatproof earthenware, but a cast-iron enameled pot will also work. Just make sure you have enough liquid or gel fuel for the burner. Thinly sliced salami or air dried beef (such as Italian Bresaola), as well as cornichons and pickled onions, are often served as an accompaniment to the fondue. A dry or semi-dry Riesling would pair well with this meal, although sparkling cider or sparkling white grape juice would also be fine.
lots of good, crusty bread (Stonehouse sweet baguette works well)
1 clove of garlic, cut in half
¾ pound each Gruyère and Emmentaler cheese
1¼ cups dry white wine (Fishtown White is a good choice)
3 teaspoons cornstarch
2 tablespoons cherry eau de vie (kirsch)
freshly ground black pepper
dash of nutmeg (optional)
[Note: Some recipes for cheese fondue call for lemon juice and/or dry mustard, but I never use them. I also skip the nutmeg.]
Cut the bread into bite-sized cubes and put into a basket; rub the fondue pot with the cut sides of the clove of garlic. Put the garlic halves into the fondue pot.
Coarsely grate the cheeses. Heat the wine in a heavy-bottomed, medium-sized saucepan until it reaches a gentle simmer. Add the cheese a little at a time, stirring constantly with a wooden spoon, until it is melted and smooth.
Stir the cornstarch and cherry eau de vie together with a whisk and add to the saucepan of melted cheese, increasing the heat somewhat and continuing to stir constantly for 3-4 minutes until slightly thickened. Transfer the mixture to the fondue pot and season with freshly ground pepper and nutmeg (if used). Place the pot on the burner at the table.
Pass the bread—each person at the table should take several pieces. With a fondue fork, spear the bread and swirl it in the fondue pot in a figure-eight motion (this helps to keep the cheese from sticking and burning, although some sticking is unavoidable). Fondue aficionados dunk their bread in kirsch before dipping it in the cheese. Keep the burner on low—the fondue should simmer, not boil, in the pot.
The cheese-coated pieces of bread are then transferred to the plate and eaten with a regular fork (in the interest of hygiene); then the process is repeated. Fondue is a sociable meal and should not be hurried—good conversation is part of the recipe!
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Black Forest Cherry Torte |
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(Schwarzwälder Kirschtorte)
Serves 12

Use your favorite dark chocolate cake recipe for this torte, or feel free to take a shortcut with a good-quality mix. It’s what you do to the cake after it is baked that makes it so special!
Chocolate cake recipe or mix
2 15-ounce cans pitted tart cherries, drained
½ cup cherry eau de vie (kirsch)
3 squares semi-sweet chocolate (Scharffen Berger or Callebaut are good choices)
2 cups whipping cream
½ cup confectioner’s sugar
12 maraschino cherries (or fresh sweet cherries in season)
Place tart cherries and ⅓ cup of kirsch in a medium bowl and leave at room temperature, stirring occasionally, for about four hours. Reserve remaining kirsch.
Meanwhile, make cake batter according to directions and pour into three 9-inch round cake pans. Bake 20-25 minutes, until toothpick inserted into deepest part comes out clean. Cool layers for about two hours.
Prepare chocolate curls and grated chocolate for garnish: With the heat of your hands slightly soften the chocolate squares. Then, using a vegetable peeler, shave one of the squares into curls and set aside in a bowl. Grate remaining two squares and set aside in a second bowl. Keep cool until ready to use, but do not store in the refrigerator.
With a sharp fork, prick the top of each cake in several places. Drain the cherries well, reserving liquid. Sprinkle reserved liquid over all three cakes.
In a chilled bowl, beat cream, sugar and remaining kirsch until stiff peaks form.
Place one cake layer on a decorative platter. Spread with ¼ of the whipped cream and top with half of the tart cherries. Repeat with second layer. Top with third layer.
Frost sides and top of cake with about ¾ of the remaining whipped cream and use the rest to place dollops of whipped cream around the perimeter of the top. To garnish, gently press grated chocolate into the sides of the cake, place a maraschino or fresh cherry on each dollop, and pile chocolate curls in the center. Wait to garnish cake until just before serving if it is not to be eaten immediately, since it will have to be refrigerated, and refrigeration may turn the chocolate gray.
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Braised Lamb Shank, White Beans and Roasted Root Vegetables |
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Serves 4
Suggested Wines:
Black Star Farms 2006 Arcturos Cabernet Franc
Chateau Chantal 2007 Malbec Reserve
4 lamb shanks
salt and freshly ground pepper
1 tablespoon Dijon mustard
1 tablespoon vegetable oil
2-3 cloves garlic, peeled and smashed
½ pound mirepoix (2 carrots, 2 celery stalks and 1 medium onion), cut in large dice
1 tablespoon tomato paste
1 cup red wine
1 quart lamb stock (you can substitute chicken stock or veal stock)
Sachet d’épices (1 bay leaf, 5-6 cracked peppercorns and 3-4 small sprigs each of parsley, thyme and rosemary, tied into a bundle with cheesecloth and kitchen string)
Season lamb shanks with salt and pepper; smear with Dijon mustard. Sear in hot oil in a large, heavy pan or ovenproof pot, making sure to get nice color on all sides. Remove shanks from pan. Add mirepoix to the same oil and caramelize it well. Deglaze the pan with red wine, then stir in tomato paste and garlic. Reduce this liquid by half. Add stock and reduce slightly. Add sachet d’épices and put lamb shanks back in pot. Cover pan and braise lamb shanks until fork tender, about 1 hour and 15 minutes. This can be done on the stovetop or in a preheated 375° oven. Remove lamb shanks, strain sauce, degrease it, and adjust consistency as needed either by adding more stock or reducing the liquid by boiling.
While lamb is cooking, prepare beans and root vegetables.
To plate this dish, put a nice pile of beans in a large, flat bowl and place the lamb shank on top of it. Then sprinkle roasted vegetables around the bowl and spoon sauce over everything. Garnish with a sprig of fresh thyme or rosemary.
White Beans
2 cups white beans, soaked overnight
2 quarts water
2 ribs celery, small dice
1 small Spanish onion, small dice
1 cup carrots, small dice
2 cloves garlic, minced
1 bay leaf
2-3 sprigs fresh thyme
1 tablespoon parsley, chopped
olive oil to coat pan
salt and freshly ground pepper
Sauté celery, onion, carrot and garlic with herbs. Add beans and water and simmer until tender, about 60–90 minutes. You can also use some of the braising liquid from the lamb shanks to add flavor. Season with salt and pepper.
Roasted Root Vegetables
These can be roasted along with the lamb at 375° for approximately the last 45 minutes of its cooking time.
4 cups (approx.) mixed root vegetables
2-3 tablespoons olive oil
Kosher salt and freshly ground pepper, to taste
1 tablespoon fresh thyme, finely chopped
Any combination of carrots, parsnips, rutabaga, turnips, sweet potatoes, Yukon Gold potatoes, onion and garlic will work. Use whatever you have on hand or like the most. Cut everything in similar-sized medium dice. Plan on about 1 cup per person when deciding how much to prepare. Toss vegetables in olive oil to coat and spread out on a rimmed sheet pan. Sprinkle with kosher salt, freshly cracked black pepper and fresh thyme. Roast in oven until golden and tender, shaking pan periodically to get good color on all sides.
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Chocolate Espresso Cheesecake |
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Suggested Wines:
Bowers Harbor Vineyard, 2005 2896, Langley Vineyard
Bel Lago Sweet Cherry Port
Crust
¾ cup amaretti macaroons
⅓ cup almonds, toasted
2 tablespoons granulated sugar
1 stick butter
6 ounces semi-sweet chocolate chips (half a package)
Combine macaroons, almonds and sugar in food processor and pulse until fine. Transfer to a bowl and mix with melted butter. Spread crust in a springform pan, pressing firmly. Bake crust in 325° oven for 8 minutes. Chill in freezer. Melt chocolate and spread evenly over crust.
Filling
1 pound semi-sweet chocolate chips
1½ cups heavy whipping cream, split
1 cup cocoa powder
3 tablespoons instant coffee mix
¼ teaspoon salt
½ cup dark rum
4 large eggs
2 pounds cream cheese
1 cup granulated sugar
Melt chocolate and cool. Sift cocoa powder, instant coffee and salt. Boil ½ cup cream and add cocoa/coffee mixture. Cook for 2 minutes, remove from heat and add remaining cream. Combine cream cheese and sugar. Gradually incorporate eggs. Combine rum with cocoa mixture and fold into cream cheese mixture. Fold in chocolate. Pour into the pan containing the crust and bake in a water bath at 300° until just barely set, about 45 minutes. Turn off oven and allow cheesecake to cool slowly. This will help prevent the top from cracking.
Serve with fresh raspberries and a touch of whipped, unsweetened cream.
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Standard version
½ pint dry cider
½ pint beer—usually a lager, or try a crisp, clean ale
Pour into a pint glass and enjoy.
Irish Style
½ pint dry cider
½ pint stout
This will be dramatic looking if you can pour the stout so it floats on top of the cider. And if you try this but fail, there’s no harm done! Drink and enjoy.
Snake Bite Black
1 shot dark liqueur, such as black currant
½ pint dry cider
½ pint beer
Pour into a pint glass in listed order. Experiment (on other nights) with different liquors. |
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Makes 3–4 servings
From Pond Hill Farm, A Food Journey
2 eggs, separated
½ cup plus 3 tablespoons sugar
1 quart milk
1 teaspoon vanilla extract
nutmeg
whipped cream (optional)
In a large bowl, beat egg yolks with ½ cup sugar until thick and lemon-colored. Blend in milk and vanilla. In a separate bowl, beat egg whites with remaining sugar until soft peaks form, and fold gently into milk mixture. Serve dusted with nutmeg and topped with whipped cream.
Note: Eggnog is not just for holidays! This recipe makes a lovely afternoon pick-me-up or an after dinner treat. |
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Makes 1 serving
You can also enjoy this without the brandy, any time of day!
8 ounces boiling water
2 spoons Montmorency cherry concentrate
1 spoon maple syrup
1 ounce cherry eau de vie, or other brandy (optional)
3 drops almond extract
Pour water into a favorite mug. Add cherry concentrate and maple syrup to taste. Pour in brandy if using. Add almond extract last, as it evaporates quickly. Enjoy the fragrant steam while sipping. |
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Makes 2 servings
This is a version of an East Indian spiced tea made with local cream and sweetened with maple syrup.
2 cups water
12 green cardamom pods
16 black peppercorns
8 whole cloves
4 slices fresh ginger root
1½ cups half-and-half or whole milk
2 teaspoons black tea leaves
2 tablespoons maple syrup
Crush cardamom pods and peppercorns lightly. Place water and spices into a saucepan, bring to boil and simmer, covered, for 10 minutes. Add cream or milk and bring back to a simmer. Do not cover. The tea will get frothier as it simmers, but should not be allowed to boil over. Turn off heat, immediately adding tea leaves. Cover and let steep for three minutes. Strain, sweeten, and serve.
For frothy chai: Strain into a clean saucepan and add syrup. Scrape spices and tea out of original pan, then pour chai back and forth between the two pans. Increasing the height from which you pour adds to the fun and froth, and cools the chai to a pleasant drinking temperature. |
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Apple Bread Pudding with Hard Cider Sauce
2 tablespoons unsalted butter
4 large eggs
3 cups heavy cream
1 cup sweet hard cider
1 cup packed light brown sugar
2 tablespoons melted unsalted butter
½ teaspoon salt
½ teaspoon cinnamon
6 cups stale raisin-cinnamon bread, cubed
1 Granny Smith apple, peeled, cored and cubed (1 cup)
1 cup dried apples, diced
Hard Cider Sauce
4 tablespoons unsalted butter
½ cup sugar
½ cup hard cider
4 large egg yolks
Preheat oven to 350°. Grease a 9 x 13 baking dish with butter; set aside.
In a large bowl, beat eggs. Add cream, cider, sugar, melted butter, salt and cinnamon; whisk to combine. Add bread, fresh and dried apples, and stir to combine. Pour into prepared dish, cover with plastic wrap, and refrigerate until bread is saturated, 1 hour.
Meanwhile, prepare the hard cider sauce: In the top of a double boiler, melt butter over simmering water. Add sugar and whisk for 1 minute. Add cider and whisk until the sugar is dissolved, 2 minutes. Remove from heat and whisk in egg yolks, one at a time. Return pan to double boiler and whisk until sauce is pale and slightly thickened, 5 minutes. Remove from heat. Sauce will thicken as it cools. For a thinner consistency, serve sauce lukewarm.
Remove plastic wrap and place bread pudding in oven. Bake until top of pudding is golden brown and center is firm, about 1 hour. Remove from oven and let sit on a wire rack to cool, 15 minutes. Cut bread pudding, put on individual serving plates, and drizzle with the Hard Cider Sauce. Serve immediately. |
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Sole in Cider
Makes 4-6 servings
Adapted from Annie Proulx and Lew Nichols’ Cider, Making Using and Enjoying Sweet and Hard Cider
7 tablespoons unsalted butter, diced
2 tablespoons finely chopped flat leaf parsley
2 pounds sole or flounder fillets
salt and freshly ground pepper
⅓ cup dry breadcrumbs
1 cup hard cider
4 tablespoons heavy cream
Preheat oven to 350°. Rub a large, shallow baking dish with half the butter and sprinkle with half the parsley. Place fish on top. Season with salt and pepper. Sprinkle with breadcrumbs and parsley, and dot with remaining butter. Pour cider in around the edges of the fish.
Place baking dish in oven until fish is just cooked through, 15–20 minutes. Remove from oven and pour cream in around the side to mix with juices. Serve fish with sauce spooned over top. |
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Hard Cider Gravy
Makes 1 quart
pan juices from roasted poultry (or low-sodium chicken broth)
1 cup hard cider
4 tablespoons unsalted butter or fat from drippings
⅓ cup all-purpose flour
salt and freshly ground pepper
If using pan juices, strain the drippings into a large measuring cup or bowl. Let stand for 5 minutes; then skim off and save fat or discard if not using. (Alternatively, use a fat separator.)
Pour cider into saucepan and cook for 1 minute; then add enough broth to make a total of 4 cups.
Melt the butter or fat from drippings in a large saucepan over medium heat. Add flour and cook, whisking continuously, until golden, 4–5 minutes. Whisk in the broth-cider mixture and bring to a boil. Reduce heat and simmer until thickened, 8–10 minutes. Season gravy with salt and freshly ground pepper. Adjust consistency with more broth or pan juices. |
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Sausage Braised in Hard Cider |
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Sausage Braised in Hard Cider
Adapted from José Andrés
12–16 ounces chorizo or other fresh or semi-dry sausage
2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil
1 bottle (24 ounces) of sweet-type hard apple cider
Crusty bread, for serving
Make four ½-inch-deep slashes on one side of each sausage. In a medium-sized, deep skillet, heat olive oil until shimmering. Add sausage and cook over moderate heat, turning occasionally, until lightly browned, 5 minutes.
Add hard cider to skillet and bring to a boil over high heat. Reduce heat to moderate and cook, turning occasionally, until sausages are softened and liquid is reduced to ⅔ cup, 30 minutes. Transfer sausages and sauce to a shallow bowl and serve with hunks of crusty bread. The sausages may be cooked earlier in the day. Rewarm them in a covered skillet over low heat. This is great with hot sauerkraut on the side.
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RECIPES
| 12 |
Sausage Braised in Hard Cider |
| 12 |
Sole in Cider |
| 13 |
Hard Cider Gravy |
| 15 |
Apple Bread Pudding with Hard Cider Sauce |
| 27 |
Maple Chai |
| 27 |
Hot Cherry Brandy |
| 27 |
Eggnog |
| 27 |
A Trio of Snake Bites |
| 29 |
Chocolate Espresso Cheesecake |
| 30 |
Braised Lamb Shanks withWhite Beans and Roasted Root Vegetables |
| 38 |
Black Forest Cherry Torte |
| 41 |
Cheese Fondue |
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