edible Communities Publications

COW + GRASS = GOOD: Beef raised close to home


By John Cox

The aroma of shoyu dripping onto a bed a smoldering kiawe coals quickly draws a hungry crowd. People watch as kalbi ribs are quickly charred against the grill’s glowing grate and then flipped into a large bowl filled with steamed rice. A handful of chopped green onions and the bowl is on its way to the table.

The past two years have not been kind to Maui Cattle Company. A drought has left pastures parched, limiting the number of cows each ranch can support. Environmental activists have fought to limit the use of irrigation, returning the water to streams and taro farms of East Maui. When I asked the head of Maui Cattle, Alex Franco, about the rough conditions he put it well: “This [water shortage] is kicking our behind, but will make us better grass managers over time. Maui will always be water short, therefore we must learn how to manage our existing resources to produce grass-fed cattle.”

Continue reading Cow + Grass = Good in Edible Hawaiian Islands Fall 2010.


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