Cookbook Reviews by Barbara Revsine

SWEETNESS
BY SARAH LEVY
Surrey Books, $20

Some baking books concentrate on simple, easy to do recipes designed for novice cooks and anyone with limited time to spend in the kitchen. Others are for experienced bakers who have the talent and time to tackle a complex recipe. Sarah Levy's Sweetness falls somewhere in between, making it a good option for a diverse audience.

An accomplished pastry chef, author Sarah Levy opened Sarah's Pastries & Candies in Chicago's posh Gold Coast neighborhood three years ago. Seemingly overnight, the bake shop developed a devoted clientele with an insatiable appetite for Sarah's French macaroons and decadent chocolate truffles. The shop moved to its current location (70 E. Oak Street, 312-664-6223), a larger space with room for a small café, several months later, followed by a second location on the first floor of Macy's on State Street (111 N. State Street, 312-781-3004).  The first section of the book is a must read. Called "My Secrets," it's a well-written overview of the terminology, ingredients and techniques used in baking. In contrast to other types of cooking, baking requires precise measurements. Too much of one ingredient or another, and the bread won't rise and the cake won't bake.

Levy begins, "First of all, don't be intimidated by pastry. You're making this at home, so even if it doesn't look exactly like you want it to, it probably still tastes great." Later in the book, she adds, "...as you know, it's all about confidence." You can almost hear the collective sigh of relief from home cooks nervous about baking.  The organization of the book can be confusing. Almond Moon Cookies, for example, are in a section called "Work," since they travel well and are suitable for an office party. No problem there. But as it turns out, these same recipes are perfect for a family get-together, the kind of occasion covered in "Day-to-Day Happenings." The obvious solution is to simply thumb through the book and pick out a recipe without worrying about the chapter designation.

While some of the recipes, including Grandma Eadie's Double Chocolate Chip Cake are easy enough for novice bakers, others, such as the Vanilla Bean Chocolate Truffles, are more complex. Rafael's Righteous Cream Cheese Brownies fall somewhere in the middle. I've simplified the technique, which affects the brownies' appearance without altering the flavor. The timeline for slicing the brownies is important, so be sure to allow enough time. One thing you won't have to worry about is leftovers; brownies this good tend to disappear quickly.  They're well worth the effort.

FAST TRACK TO FINE DINING
BY LINDA MUTSCHLER
$38.95

Planning, preparing and hosting a dinner party can be daunting, even for an experienced home cook. Enter Milwaukee resident Linda Mutschler's Fast Track to Fine Dining, a how-to book that offers a step-by-step game plan, complete with a multi-course menu, grocery list, and an all-inclusive timeline covering both preparation and serving.  All of the dinners, with the exception of Thanksgiving and Christmas, adhere to a similar format: cocktails and hors d'oeuvres followed by a served starter, salad, palate cleanser, main course and dessert. Recipes are listed for every item on the menu, including relatively simple side dishes. The instructions are uniformly precise and easily understood; nothing is left to chance. For one recipe, the carrots have to be sliced on the diagonal; for another, the asparagus should be especially thin. Timing is, of course, the issue, and timing-as any cook will attest-is crucial.

While the recipes have broad appeal, they're neither mundane nor boring. Salmon, for example, is marinated in a charmoula made with cilantro, parsley and lemon juice; pork tenderloin is seasoned with a dry rub made with dried thyme, mustard and tarragon; and onions are oven-roasted in a mix of balsamic vinegar and extra-virgin olive oil.

Given today's trend toward simpler meals, Mutschler's menus often seem overly long and complex. The lamb tagine made with dried fruit and a myriad of spices is part of a menu that begins with a melon infused Champagne cocktail, hummus, and phyllo-wrapped cheese bites made with a mix of feta, Parmesan and cream cheese. The sit-down portion of the dinner kicks off with a carrot soup made with orange juice and fresh fennel followed by a green salad tossed with feta cheese and two kinds of grapes. A mango sorbet comes next, followed by the tagine, couscous and a dessert course that pairs cinnamon cookies with crème brulee.

Eliminate the cheese bites, soup, sorbet, and half of the dessert, and the dinner is still a special treat. And if you Follow Mutschler's game plan, you'll enjoy the evening as much as your guests