HEIRLOOM BEANS
The Beauty of the Bean
by Dana Benigno

When I began the research for this edition of Cooking with the Seasons, I was astounded at the variety of heirloom beans available. Each bean is so unique and beautiful, I kept thinking of ways to display them in jars or in vases on my dinner table instead of devising recipes in which to cook them. But, I love a pot of slow simmered beans in the fall, garnished with a bit of olive oil or sprinkling of cheese and fresh ground pepper and fresh chopped herbs, so my table centerpiece will have to go, or rather be eaten.

The varieties of dried beans that are available at farmers markets and in local stores have increased in the past few years. Small gourmet stores will offer more variety than your local supermarket. When you buy dried beans from local shops, you can inquire about the age of the beans, but the best way to buy them and insure their freshness, is direct from the grower. The internet is another great source for ordering dried beans when it is not farmers market season. Store them in an airtight container and use them within two years. “Beans in the grocery store could be two, five or even ten years old, which means they continue to lose moisture. This makes them shelf stable, but the drier the bean, the longer the cooking time,” according to Tracey Vowell of Three Sisters Garden in Kankakee, Illinois.

Cooking Beans – to soak or not to soak – that is the question?

Everybody has an opinion on the best way to cook beans. Contrary to popular belief, soaking the beans does nothing to decrease the flatulence factor. You can, however, gradually increase your intake without worry. The more beans you add to your daily diet, the easier it will be for your body to adjust to their digestion.

I prefer to soak beans, especially if I have purchased them from the grocery store, as they can be very dry. I think a pre-soaking keeps them from splitting during the quick cook method. If you have purchased beans locally, you can simply cook the beans in a pot of water with seasonings such as onions, carrots, garlic, and fresh herbs. Bring it to a brisk boil. Lower the heat and cook at a bare simmer until tender. The cooking time will not always determine when the beans are done. Simply taste test them to see if they are cooked to your liking.

Special equipment

I prefer a heavy soup pot such as enamel coated cast iron or a Dutch oven to cook the beans evenly and gently. You may cook the beans on the stovetop or bring them to a boil and then place the pot in a 350° oven and cook 1 to 2 hours until they are tender. The classic bean dish, cassoulet (casserole in France), takes its name from the pot in which it cooks. In Mexico, beans are typically cooked in a clay ceramic pot on the stovetop. Using a pressure or slow cooker is also a good method for cooking beans. Since many slow cookers have different temperature settings, it is best to follow the recommendations on cooking times from your appliance instructions.

Herbs and aromatics such as onions, garlic, rosemary, thyme, parsley or sage are all delicious with any variety of beans. Many chefs will season with salt midway through the cooking process to prevent split skins. Reserve tangy or sweet additions such as molasses for baked beans or tomatoes until the beans are fully cooked in order to prevent toughening of the skins.

Editors’ note: heirloom beans can be purchased online at www.breslinfarms.com, www.ranchogordo.com , www.seedsavers.org

RECIPE

Beans with Rosemary, Sage and Pecorino

Dana Benigno, of ChicagoCooks.com has a wonderful centerpiece of heirloom beans gracing her dinner table, but it is shrinking by the week as she concocts new recipes using her beautiful creation. She is also the Executive Director of the Chicago Green City Market and is a regular contributor to Edible Chicago.