This savory fruit sauce goes beautifully with grilled or poached salmon for a simple but elegant summertime dinner. Besides the contrast of colors—palest celadon and coral—the acidity of the fruit with rich salmon flesh recalls
groseilles à maquereau (gooseberries with mackerel) of classic French tradition. Or think of roast pork with applesauce of American tradition. You can add a dusting of chopped fennel leaves if you wish, and serve grilled fennel slices on the side.

6 ounces white currants, stemmed
¼ cup water
1–2 tablespoons sugar, or to taste
A few grains of salt, if desired

Put the currants and water in a small saucepan, cover and bring to a boil; cook gently until the skins burst. Press with the back of a spoon through a fine sieve into a small bowl, to strain out the skin and seeds. Stir a little sugar into the purée, gradually so as not to oversweeten. Taste carefully and add a pinch of salt if you wish.