While not technically the chuck, the neck is an oftoverlooked part of the cow that sits just in front of the chuck. Joe Cloud, of T&E Meats in Harrisonburg, originally developed this recipe using bison neck bones, but it works well with beef too.

Serves 4 to 6

3 to 4 lb. beef neck bones
1 onion, coarsely chopped
1 carrot, coarsely chopped
1 celery stick, coarsely chopped
1 stick cinnamon
2 bay leaves
5 cloves
5 whole peppercorns
2 dried guajillo chilies
2 Tbsp. canola oil
Generous pinch each of ground cumin, ground
coriander, Mexican oregano, and chili powder
Salt and pepper to taste
Small corn tortillas
1 cup or more shredded Monterey Jack cheese
Fresh salsa (chopped onion, tomato, lime
juice, cilantro)

1. Place neck bones and next 8 ingredients in slow-cooker and cook on low for 4 to 6 hours.

2. Remove bones and place in bowl to cool down. Meanwhile strain and reserve cooking liquid. Refrigerate bones overnight. (This can all be done several days ahead.)

3. Pick cold beef off the bones, shredding it. Heat oil in a heavy frying pan over medium heat, and sauté beef. Turn heat down, and add spices. Add several spoonfuls of the braising liquid, at all times keeping the beef moist. Simmer for a short while as the ingredients blend together.

4. In an already hot cast-iron skillet over medium-high heat, toast tortilla for about 30 seconds. Flip, and sprinkle a small amount of cheese on top; let cook until cheese melts. Remove from skillet and place a small amount of beef filling on top; fold in half. Repeat until filling is used up. Serve with salsa. Note: This is at its best when you eat as you go.