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Courtesy of Chef Dava Parr, Fresh & Wyld Farmhouse Inn and Gardens, Paonia
Every year Jon Hollinger and his merry band of hunters come to Paonia and surrounding hills and dales to hunt for, and dine on, duck. Over the last two years we’ve been treated to bluegrass music by a couple of Jon’s extraordinary guides, and when combined with the wonderful people and fresh duck, it all makes for a memorable occasion. The Aspen Outfitting group brings in enough duck to feed 40 people, so I invite the village for what has now become Fresh & Wyld’s Annual Duck Hunter’s Dinner. Aspen Outfitting reminds me of why I choose to cook and live in Paonia, and makes me proud to be a chef!
For the rub: Enough for 4 Mallard breasts 1 teaspoon smoked paprika 1 teaspoon paprika 1⁄2 teaspoon cinnamon 1⁄2 teaspoon coriander 1⁄2 teaspoon cumin seed 1 tablespoon dried Ancho chili
Toast the above ingredients in a dry pan, until it just starts to smoke, then add the following:
1⁄2 teaspoon thyme 1⁄2 teaspoon sea salt 1⁄4 teaspoon black pepper 2 teaspoons brown sugar I make enough of this rub to fill a quart jar so I have it on hand for other meats, pork and chicken.
For the duck: 4 Mallard breasts Salt 1 tablespoon olive oil 2 tablespoons clarified butter (ghee)
Early in the day, prepare a brine with 1 quart of water and 3 tablespoons of salt.
Remove any downy feathers from the breasts. Soak the breasts for a few hours.
Drain and dry duck thoroughly. Press the spice rub on the breasts and allow to sit for 1–2 hours.
Heat a skillet and add olive oil and butter. Place the breasts in the skillet, but don’t overcrowd. Let them cook for 2 or 3 minutes on each side, aiming for a medium-rare temperature. This is important! You want a hot skillet to sear the meat well, but you don’t want to leave it in the pan long enough to overcook. Medium doneness is overcooked for wild game! Sometimes I make a reduction with the duck drippings, deglazed with red wine, honey and cold pats of butter, to thicken the sauce.
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