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April/May 2012

 
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Edible Essence A Sample of the Season

radish

Totally Rad
By Lauren Mifsud | photography by megan wylie ruffing

What’s red and white and packs a big taste? Radishes. And while they’re at the end of their harvest season, another one is right around the corner.  “You have to be careful when you plant radishes,” says David Yoder of Nu Way Farm. “They do best in the spring and fall because they like lots of water and grow quickly. If you wait until summer, they’ll be hot as fire.”

The radish, cousin to broccoli, cauliflower, and Brussels sprouts, is famous for its bold flavor. The red root vegetable, when raw, has a mild, woodsy quality and a peppery aftertaste. Originally grown in China, Egypt, and Greece, radishes have found a home in the fields of Western Pennsylvania. “We get almost all of our radishes locally,” says East End Food Co-Op Produce Manager Aaron Young. “We have Red Globe, Black, Daikon, French Breakfast, and Watermelon varieties,” he says.

Yoder says that Cherry Bell and French Breakfast varieties are the easiest to grow, and he knows a trick or two for growing the best radishes. “Mix the radish seed in with carrot seed.” He says mixing the seeds serves a two-fold purpose: The radishes act as a marker crop because they grow quickly, and the carrots help thin out the radish crop.

When looking for radishes in the produce aisle, choose bundles with quality characteristics. “You want nice looking leaves, and [the radishes] have to be firm. Avoid them if they’re soft,” Young says. Radishes with long, tapered roots “may be [spicy], hot, and woody. This means it’s been grown in hot, dry weather because the root grew further down to look for water. That makes a bad tasting radish,” Yoder says.

One place where you’re sure to find a great-tasting radish is The Supper Club. Executive Chef Greg Andrews says, depending on the shape of the vegetable, he likes to serve radishes raw. “The best method that I’ve found is to quarter them if they’re globe shaped, or, if they’re long, like a Breakfast radish, I like to leave them whole or slice them lengthwise for an interesting texture.” He prefers French Breakfast radishes because he says their flavor is a little less intense, and suggests pickling and pairing them with arugula, diced apple, and honey.

East End Food Co-Op, 7516 Meade Street, Pittsburgh. 412.242.3598. eastendfood.coop. Penn’s Corner Farm Alliance, 412.363.1971. pennscorner.com. The Supper Club, 101 Ehalt Street, Greensburg. 724.691.0536. supperclubgreensburg.com

 

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